D44 Steering Arm
 

I didnt find much about this in the forums so this is why im asking for help. I just installed a 4 inch lift on my '76 K10 and the only thing i have left to do is change the steering arm :mad: I talked to a couple people and they said to remove the 3 nuts and beat on it with the biggest hammer i can find till it comes loose. After doing that and everything in my power it hasn't budged. I am now to the conclusion that something in still holding it on. There is what appears to be 3 washers on the arm around the studs and i tried to chisel these off but its a little difficult with the limited space around them. Are these washers whats holding this arm onto the knuckle still?

Any info on these would be really helpful!!

This picture is not of my truck I just used it as an example...

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

The washers are just that, washers EDIT: I'm an idiot, don't know what I was thinking...LOL. they are not "just washers". do you have access to a torch? I would try heating the arm up than try to hammer it off.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I heated it with the torch and hammered on it and pryed on it with no results :(

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

The reason I asked about the "washers" is because they didnt come off like normal washers. I had to chisel them off.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Sounds like it's on there good. They are usually a pain to get off and there isn't anything else holding it on.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Yeah I didn't know if anybody had any special tricks to getting them off other than hammering, prying, or heating.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Dont hammer or pry up.. The way those cone washers work it just makes em tight.. get it super hot and then hamme down on it.. which should loosen it up... and then it will pull right off.. as soon as the first cone breaks loose its a piece of cake.. The first one i ever did it took me three days.. i would let it keep soaking in penetrating oil.. on the last day I used a 15 pound sledge hammer and said i wasnt quitting till it was off.. First hit and 2 cones came off another hit and it was all off. just be persistant and there is no such thing as to big of a big ****ing hammer!

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I worked on it for 2 days before i was convinced it wasn't coming off so i guess we'll see how round 3 goes :lol:

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Those aren't really washers.They are more like split tapered sleeves and that is what you are fighting.I've had great luck with PB Blaster soak,soak more,then more leaving a day between.Then hit it harder.Once you see a separation at all you can start working a cold chisel in on the other side so it is lifting off more evenly to prevent a bind.It's never easy.You're not alone.It's the toughest snag in lift kit installation.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I was kind of thinking those little "washers" had something to do with it not coming loose. So I guess it would be in my best interest to finish removing them.
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Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

They are not "just washers"...they are tapered cones that go nearly the full depth of the arm's thickness.

There is a trick to this, but if I tell you...I have to kill you.

No, it's not that bad, but you have to promise to not take credit for it....LOL.


It may "seem" like a pain in the ***, but the simplest way is to remove the caliper, hub/rotor, and the nuts that hold the spindle in place. That way you can get the dust shield out of the way. The secret to this is to hit the steering arm right near the studs/cones themselves. They will "pop" from the "shock". When the first one "pops" tap a flat screwdriver into the slot (from the side, not the top). This will open the cone slightly and it will come off easier. Then hit it again.....repeat.

I used to have to do this several times a week and had to come up with a better way...trust me, it works. Also, it's not as much about the size of the hammer as it is the "speed". I'm not saying that you can do it with a "toy", you need a real hammer, but it doesn't have to be some huge thing that is too hard to get any real "speed".

You can hit the end of the arm for days and noting much will happen. ;)

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

here's the hidden part you can't see CONICAL WASHERS

http://www.reidracing.biz/images/D44117K.jpg

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I think i will have to try your method because with everything still bolted on there is barely any room to hit the steering arm close to the studs.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Are new conical washers easy to get or is it like a special order thing? Because I am going to need new ones :lol:

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Why would you need new ones? I have never seen one ruined because they are so buried that they are hard to destroy.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

Well the top of one of them was chiseled off because when I thought they were just normal washers I tried to get it off that way. But other than that it is fine so I may be able to reuse it after I get them out.
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Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

you can order new one's from any 4WD online store, not sure if NAPA has them...

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

A GOOD local parts store can get them too, but many of you might not have one...

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I stopped by the local NAPA today and they were able to get some conical washers from the gm dealer across town. I will be working on getting the steering arm off tomorrow so hopefully everybodys tips and info will help ;)

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

oops, looks like I was wrong on the washer part, its been awhile since I pulled an arm off. At least there are a lot of good people on here to get things corrected!

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I actually drilled a few small holes into the conical washers on mine... loosened right up but also hit the steering arm, if you are throwing it out you might resort to that option, just don't hit the studs...

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I took the entire knuckle off the axle and had a machine shop use a press to remove the arm. Took 30 mins but was $65 - well worth it to me to continue progress on the truck.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

I did one about a year ago, fortunatly the ps pump has been leaking so bad the knuckle was well lubed and it went easy, if all else fails you can remove the studs from the knuckle and replace them. Wfo concepts in Auburn CA sells a complete kit of 3 studs, 3 washers, and 3 nuts. Be carefull if you get washers from Napa, when I went to get some they mistakenly tried to sell me some that are designed to hold old style brake drums on, they are the wrong size.

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

It's been a busy weekend but I just wanted to give everyone an update. I got everything apart (including the steering arm) on wednesday night, then reassembled everything thursday night, including new ball joints since I realized they were beyond worn out. After soaking the steering arm in penetrating oil for 2 days and removing everything to get to the steering arm, I persuaded it with a 15 lb. sledge for about ten minutes and it popped off :metal: Over the weekend I put over 200 miles on the truck and have had no problems (other than my alternator now :lol:)

Thank you everyone for your advice and opinions ;)

Re: D44 Steering Arm
 

My alternator went bad after I put a lift kit on,too.I think it's from all the hammering.:lol:
Glad to hear you whooped that bear.I used to go right out and lift my old 4wds first thing.I came around to realize if you can't do it all at once (because of money),you should first get everything tight in the front end/steering,then install lift.That leaves no "round tuit" factor and you really need a tight front end with a taller truck with bigger tires."Do it right or don't do it at all".Nothing beats those first miles at the new altitude.Feels best after you did it all yourself.A feeling well earned.