governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

what the titles says, thanks

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

what tranny
th200/350/400/375/200r4/700r4/?????????????????????????????

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

350

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

If you're talking about a full manual valve body, then the governor no longer controls anything and can be removed or left in place. I removed mine when I changed valve bodies in my TH350.

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

Hey I got a TH-350 with a B&M shift kit 2K stall it shifts real easy from 1st to 2nd like around 1200RPM'S then it seems to hold in 2nd for awhile then snaps into 3rd,I put the street valve body setup in it when I installed the kit.The early shifting has allways done it since I bought the trans. and before I put the shift kit in.Any ideas?

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

im switching from a shift kit, to a full manual valve body. so does this mean i no longer the governor?

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

The governor no longer functions with a full manual V.B.

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

okay, thank you sir.

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

If you are running a trans brake/ with the manual valve body you must bump to a billet hub the cast one will not hold. Leave on the convertor a few times and you will see what I am talking about. If you leave on the cushion it may hold for a while but it will pop ... sooner or later and it is a mess.. another ask me how I know things..

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

if im not running a transbrake should i be fine?

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

Yes the cast stock hum in a T350 will hold , but most times when you are going to a manual V body the trans brake is part of the deal along with a 10 inch and under convertor. If this is a street driven deal a manual valve body is a PIA really.... You can damage the tranny if you forget to downshift and try to take off in high gear.

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

its gonna be street legal, but i mainly built it to race. and i wanted to be able shift wen i want it to, not wen the tranny does.

Re: governor recalibration needed with manual valve body?
 

Then if you are going to race you will need a trans brake to get the truck to really launch. Reverse pattern manual body with a brake, Convertor wise I cannot help you without knowing what engine you have and the power out put. But lets say you have a 400/400 build & 4.11 gears I would look into a 3500-4000 10 inch.. The less tq the engine builds the less RPM you get.

Convertors can be tough to get it right the first time most guys end up trying a few.. trans gearing will effect it as well, you might find that one convertor works great in a tb400 but not as well in a tb350 due to gearing.. Then start messing with a glide and you start all over again..


You have not given up much info but the thing that I have delt with first hand and seen many time is that a convertor is bought and it will not stall high enough to really get the engine up on cam and make the vehicle snap your neck when it leaves.


You also get into stall speeds that are the same but the convertor is smaller.. another hurdle to overcome... For a strip- truck that is being driven to the track I would start with a 10 inch 3500-4000 stall convertor. You want to be able to leave on the cushion or the convertor, your set up will dictate that once you get it done.

In a 350 trans the hub and sprag are your weak link.. and when you brake parts in these trannys you take out the pump almost every time and the convertor is full of metal as well and needs to be sent in for rework and flush... or you put the junk back into your newly built trans.

You are money ahead to build it right the first time.

Myself would start with a 400 trans, and put a good kit into it, get the convertor and go have fun.. If you look at fully built units you will see that when the trans brake gets added the price jumps up a ton, well that is due to the fact that you have to have other parts..

One other thing if you even have a tiny idea that maybe you are going to run the bottle on the motor by the convertor with the anti ballon plate as well.

Most of what I am going over falls under the ask me how I know deal.. I tried to run a 350 with a brake and no billet hub, cost me a ton of money as I took out the pump, case, valve body, convertor....

Then I started over and did not have a anti ballon plate a small 175 shot and I got to start over again... no fun and a boat load of money. I build my own trannys but even so the cost at the end of my learning curve was high.

SO if I can pass some info along and you save your self the heart ach and money , that makes me smile :)!!!

Some may disagree with me and say well I run my whatever without those parts.. well there is always that "guy" I was never that guy and broke everyhting I could until I did it correctly.. But then again a track vehicle takes a beating time after time..


OHHH yea a big cooler is needed as well. Heat in the fluid is a killer on the trans.. Running a vehicle at the track is nothing like the street and vice versa.. To do both you have to have it set up right.. :chevy: