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Rear leaf help
Hey guys tomorrow im tackling my rear leafs :S was wondering if there is any tricks or tips in removing a few leafs and putting in new center pins and u bolts.
Idealy i want to leave the main spring (the one attached to the shackles) in the truck and try and do it that way or am i just asking fro trouble? Thanks Dru |
Re: Rear leaf help
Soak your U-bolts in WD-40 or whatever penetrating oil you prefer over night. I use two large C-clamps on either side of the U-bolts to hold everything together. Drop the axle and remove the center pin, then slowly release the pressure on the C-clamps.
Your going to need a new center pin, and its also recommended to replace U-bolts while your at it. |
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Ok that makes me feel a lot better, I've seen WAY too many people run just one leaf, being a 1 ton I was hoping that's not what you meant.
What N2TRUX said is right, soak them up pretty good, they look pretty rusty so you might use a little heat on them if needed. Just don't get too carried away and catch anything on fire. Worse case just cut them off. Use as many jack stands as possible, that's gonna be a lot of weight coming down, be carefull!! |
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The way i was thinking of doing it ( feel free to correct me if it's not a good idea) -Leave the truck on the ground Block ALL tires, -Undo/cut the u bolts out Jack the truck up as to relieve pressure from the springs (have them clamped of course) than undo the center pins remove leafes as needed (lots lol) and re install everything. it sounds good im my head but i just want to make sure. it's a learning experience for me. |
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Lots of oil, Kano labs sells Kroil. I use it every day on engines that are rusty from non-use and sitting outside, great stuff! PB Blaster is more readily available, still pretty good, just use lots of it! |
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If you have never done this Google or Youtube a few movies and see how people do it, it's not a big deal but that's a lot of weight that can hurt you or your friend if you don't really know what to expect. I quickly typed in "rear leaf spring removal" and got this watch a few of these so you get an idea. This is a 3 + 1 rear leaf setup on a half ton (light in comparison) and watch how fast it drops, you have an 11 + 1 and another 10 or so, (don't exactly remember the count but VERY heavy) but I think you get my point. I know you're not lifting your truck but its the removal instructions you're looking for. I'm not trying to sound like your mom but I don't want anyone getting hurt either. Just take your time and be safe! If you have any questions post back and ask, everyone here is always welcome to help!! |
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On a side note, are you leaving the doubled up frame support and massive crossmember?
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As for the huge "cross member" it's actually part of the old wheel lift when it had a wrecker on it. and is long gone (What a PITA!!!!!) the bottom double upped frame support i dont think will be an issue but if it is i will be cutting out if need be. alright wish me luck boys! and i hope i dont make it too the emergency room! hahaha Later Dru p.s will take lots of pics! |
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Hey, you said lots of pics so if you get too crazy (which I encourage) do a build thread, everyone loves those!! This place has a thing for pic addicted people!!
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Do yourself a favor, just cut the u-bolts off...will save you HOURS of time...lol. One cut is all that is needed, at the very bottom...then just pry them sideways and out of the way...they slide right out.
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^^ or just turn your gun up and shear them off, takes about 1 second. That's by far the easiest if you have one.
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I didn't, dont :(
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Since he is doing this for the first time I wouldn't recommend it, usually gets people walking away fast. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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LOL I LIVED! yay! all said an Done the truck is 2.5 inch lower and rides ALOT better!
Pics in the link in sig :) |
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So got to finaly drive the truck over 100km after the work. my step dad is telling em since i "dropped" it the drive shaft at the hanger bearing is being "pushed" in? when i drive the truck it seems fine? the truck sits closer to stock now. idk any thoughts?
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It might have changed the pinion angle a little bit, which would cause the driveshaft to look pushed in at the carrier bearing. Not sure what the correct angle for the pinion is, but it might be worth checking that out. Taking out the extra spring stack is just shortening the length from the rear differential to the carrier bearing. It could still be ok, just closer to the factory set angle. I would be interested to know what the numbers should be for the angle on the rear diff on a stock truck like ours.
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