power door locks
 

Hey everyone,

There was a big car/truck show out in my neck of the woods this weekend and I came home with some good deals. $45 dash pad, $60 fan shroud, a hidden antenna and a power door lock kit from AutoLoc. I spent all day today trying to install the power door lock kit and am having major problems. Has anyone done one of these kits before, if so, I need some pointers. They claim easy installation, which might be the case for the wiring, but getting these dumb things to work together is a nightmare. The kit is centrally locking, meaning when you lock/unlock one door, the other door locks/unlocks as well. The wiring goes together like clock work, all I had to do was match up the different colored wires and find a constant hot 12+ source. I mounted the door lock actuators on the door, but when it comes time to try to get the actuator rod working in harmony with the factory lock rod, thats where my install goes to $hit. I'm looking for any advice, tips, secrets, etc. that will help me get this job done. I swear, I've built everything on my truck myself, but this small job of trying to get the freakin door locks to work properly is driving me to my wits end.

Contact them, they usually are very willing to diagnose problems which may come up.

Being a satisfied customer brings more sales.....

Give them a call at 503-693-1918 (tech support). They should be able to help you out.

I installed power locks on mine and found that if you connected the actuator rod to the factory lock rod like the directions said it would not work because the factory lock rod took too much effort to move. Solved the problem by connecting the rod to the lever that the key cylinder moves. Had to remove the cylinder and drill a hole in the lever thru the hole that the key cylinder mounts in. Hope this helps

Tom...... by setting up the power locks like you said, where did you mount the actuators? I totally understand what you're saying about the factory lock rod, it also doesnt seem to travel in a pure vertical manner, there's some side-to-side slop in it that binds up the autoloc actuator. I'd appreciate if you could reply and tell me what you did for your setup. Thanks

Mine were not autoloc brand, but the actuator looks like the ones LMC sells. I mounted the actuators to the door under the factory latch, and used washers to shim them out where I wanted them. Sorry I don't have a pic

Give this a try, take the lock mech apart and lube it up. Odds are it hasnt had any lube for a few years. Mine worked fine once I did that. But for some unknown reason they stopped working the other day.

Anyone figure out how to put one on the 3rd doors on the suburbans?

It's been a while.....pull the latch out of 3rd door,clean up & lubricate. look at latch while pulling on lock linkage-thats the tab you use.drill 3/16 hole in tab so you can mount actuator rod vertically using a linkage clip(like on most all gm latches).take your time to make the angles non existant(will work a lot smoother).hard to explain but is easy to do.

Maybe it's just me, but this is a pain in the butt. Tom, for clarification, where did you mount your actuators? I check out the LMC catalog and the autoloc ones looks pretty similar in size/design. Where did you screw the actuator to? I didn't really have time today to fiddle with it again, but I took a peek at what you were talking about. I'm still a bit confused. There are two pieces of metal that move with the lock. There's the piece that is attached to the lock cylinder itself, and there is the arm that is part of the whole door latch assembly. Which one did you use for your power door lock? Either of those pieces is several inches away from the door panel..... did you do a horizontal bend to get the rod all the way over there? Maybe these sound like dumb questions, but I dont want to spend anymore time on this stupid project. thanx bro

TTT

I used the arm that is part of the latch itself,just drilled a hole in it to hook the rod to... I mounted the actuator on the end of the door under the factory latch. Just drilled two holes and used washers to shim it out where it was a straight shot... two years and no problems