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Bolt in steering rack
I have 67 that I'm doing a build on. My ? Is does anyone know of a steering rack that would work with very lil if any mods must be done. Thanks
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Re: Bolt in steering rack
Do you mean power steering, or a rack and pinion that bolts in. No one makes a kit that adds a R&P unless its an integral part of an aftermarket IFS.
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I ment a rack and pinion.
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None for a stock/oem cossmember.
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That sucks I guess I'll just rebuild and replace.
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^ Yep, this kit is about $3000 or close to that. Comes with new column and a couple other goodies.
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I was unaware that Flaming River had that set-up for the C10 trucks.
For that kind of money I would purchase a Dropmember (www.PorterbuiltStreetRods.com) and gain the additional ground clearance. (especially now that Nate's adding the option of a "coil over" version to his super popular air bag Dropmember) |
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You could do a power dropmember for less than just the rack and bracket. |
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You can also price out a Scotts bolt in ifs we have this in a coil-over set up
already and a airbag set up as well.Our complete hub to hub starts at $2895.00 and this comes with all the mounting hardware and parts needed from one supplier. Justin www.scottshotrods.com |
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We at Scotts offer a dirrect bolt in for the 63-87 in coil over or air bag complete hub to hub and have been for some time ask lou santiago what he thinks since he is installing one on his 83 burban right now..
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You would think being that these trucks r so popular thatbthe after market industry would have came outvwith one by now.
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I really like the bolt in I got from Scotts' here is some info on it.
1.The cross member is made out of 2x4 structure steel and is made out 3/16 wall thickness. That is 100% TIG welded 2.Upper and Lower A-arm mounting points are made out of 1 1/8 solid bar stock, not tubing. cross tubes that are 8 inches long and slide thru the cross member and sticks out 2 inches per side on the cross member. There haves never been a problem with this set up and is 100% bullet proof 3. Upper and lower a-arms are made out of 1 1/8 round 1/4 wall DOM tubing. For customers who polished S.S we make them out of 1 1/8 solid 304 S.S 4. The rod ends that secure the a-arms are made out of 304 S.S that are CNC machined in house not china. These have been tested to with stand 180,000 pounds of pressure. 5. All of our mounting hardware as in the bolts are grade 8 bolt and have never failed over the years. 6. Spindles are forged steel spindle we use and we have these either in a stock or dropped spindle 7. Brake calipers are off of a 82-89 Chevy s-10 8. The rotors are a Lincoln Granada off a 77-78 9. The power racks are a 88 Ford Thunderbird 10. Bags are from slam bags 11. If you want a coil-over instead of a bag we use a Alden coil-over 12. The complete frontend is 100 tig welded not mig welded. Starting price is $2895.00 retail and this is a 100% complete from hub to hub. If you price it out with our other companies who make a bolt in ifs for the c-10 truck we are a almost $700.00 cheaper for a complete bolt on package. 13. The outer tie rod end we use a tie rod end not a hime joint. 14. Keep in mind this frontend is 100% bolt in IFS no welding at all and this is also with our airbag set up as well. No need to notch the frame at all. |
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thanks lou for copying justins post from the c-10 forum :-)
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Here are a couple of pictures of the front end that I have. I have put alot of front ends under stuff. I have built a bunch of front ends for different stuff. I like the way this piece fits.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...U/IMG_3958.jpg http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...U/IMG_3956.jpg http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...U/IMG_3945.jpg |
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Q: Why are the inner supports cut in half and then pieced back together (in picture #2) and does it it only have one bolt on the cross member that bolts to the side of the frame? (picture #3)
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to fit the correct width of the 73- 87 frame they are around 3/4 wider than the 63-72 frames.This was done several months ago at Lous shop and after this was installed we made the changes and inner frame brace is made out of one piece of material to fit the differnce in the frame. Justin |
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I wouldnt bother with a R & P unless you are completely changing crossmember... it is just a really good way to screw up the ackerman and end up with excessive bumpsteer runout. If a crossmember option is out then look at CPP for an upgraded box and rebuild your front steering. When done right they actually do pretty darn good :)
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i was looking at cpps steering products they look like dam good stuff. but saving a lil money and going with scotts IFS kit would be perrty nice $$$$$$
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nice i would love to see this set up. it would be a great add-on to someones build whos not looking for a complete IFS kit but yet wants the modern rack..please do keep us posted..
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