Ignition switch removal
 

ok guys this should be simple right, put key in ignition , turn to on, put paper clip into little hole, push in, turn key to accessory and viola.......nothing......over and over i tried, and got nothing but upset.......i need to remove this in order to remove the bezal correct......im stumped, am i doing something wrong here? helppp

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

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67's and some 68's don't have an accessory position. Just put the key in the ignition and "gently" turn it as far to the LEFT as it will go, not right. Insert a straightened paper clip in the hole (the large ones work best) and push the release pin down (go easy here, it doesn't take much pressure at all) and turn the cylinder to the LEFT a little more. As you turn the cylinder you have to remove the paper clip or it will bind in the hole. The cylinder should pull out. You should not have to force anything. If the key comes out of the lock when you are trying to pull the cylinder out, try using a small "O" ring pick to pull it out.

LockDoc

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

If you follow my instructions in the post above yours it should come apart. The bezel won't screw off until you take the lock cylinder out. I think you are confusing the switch assembly with the cylinder. The cylinder is the center part that the key goes into. If you don't have that out yet screw the bezel back on the switch until you get the cylinder out. Be careful not to cross thread the bezel, the threads are really fine on it. Here is a picture with the parts labeled.

LockDoc

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

Any way to do this without having the original key?

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

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The code number should be stamped on the door lock cylinder, (see pic below) sometimes one, sometimes both. The only time I have found one that didn't have the code stamped on it is when the lock had been replaced with a new one. Check the passenger door first. Generally the lock case will have to be cleaned very well to be able to see the code number. A small wire brush, steel wool, scotch bright, or sandpaper usually works well for this. I do not recommend a wire wheel because it will completely remove the code number if it is stamped lightly. The code number is always stamped into the lock case, never cast into it. Most locksmiths can cut a key from this code number. Home centers and hardware stores will not be able to do this. If the locks are original to the truck or were all replaced at the same time the key made from the code number on the door lock should fit the ignition switch & usually the glove box too (but not always).

LockDoc

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

Has anyone had the ignition and doors setup to use the same key?

Re: ignition switch removal problems
 

Yes, it would have been cheaper to re-key the ignition lock cylinder. To re-key the door locks you have to remove the stainless cover from the front of the lock which usually means replacing the cover. Plus you have to re-key two locks when you do the doors.

Another thing to consider for anyone else thinking about doing this is to make sure that the key that you are going to use physically fits into the lock you are going to have re-keyed. There are four different keyways and key blanks for the '67-'72 chevy & GMC trucks.

Also, to mirror what Andy said all '67-'72 GM trucks came from the factory with the doors and ignition keyed the same...

LockDoc