2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

I realize I need to relocate mounts in the rear. But what size should be used with a rear bag setup?

What angle am I trying to accomplish with the shocks mount relocation? As close to vertical as possible?

Are new shocks needed in the front with a 2" drop?

Thanks a ton guys! Im excited to tear into the suspension!

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Stock replacement shocks will work fine w/relocated mounts. KYB-Gr2's are a good shock & can be found as the 'hose brand' @ Carquest auto parts stores.
Correct. You want them as close to vertical as possible.
Standard replacement shocks will work fine w/2" spring drops.

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Again thank you Scoti!

I suspect I may want to add drop spindles to the dront. Will I be safe with the factory length shocks at a total of 4.5"ish drop?

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Drop spindles do not alter shock travel (length) requirements. Shorter springs or relocated mounting positions do.

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Bought shocks all around at Autozone yesterday. Buy one get one 1/2 off. Or buy three get one free. $63 for all four shocks. Got the old ones off lastnight and had to stop due to lack of sunlight.

Also picked up the harbor freight electric impact gun with the extended warranty. I cannot believe I wasted years turning wrenches. Im in Love.

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Cut the springs tonight. Bad and good news.

The PO swapped in a 305 so I kind of figured that the added weight would give me more drop than the 1/2 coil= 1 inch that is expected. I went with 7/8ths of a coil cut off and netted a total of 3" of drop in the front somehow. Used a level on the grille and the front is dead level.

I remember reading on here that a member was told that anything over 2" of drop from cut springs is impossible to have aligned. Is that true?

On a side note, the frot shocks were toast. Took about 1 minute for the shock to return to extended after being compressed. I can't wait to feel the difference after installing the rear bags!
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Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Added weight vs. what?

There isn't much weight difference when comparing a 305 v8 vs. a straight 6cyl. One coil typically yields between 2-3" of drop depending on the amount of sag in the springs when compared to new springs. It's not 'impossible' to re-align. Some trucks run out of room for shims on the stud & require longer studs be pressed into place. The problem w/that is you won't know until that point in time & it's a PITA if the shop doesn't have what you need.

Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

Oh I just assumed the i6 would weigh less. But that was from dropping a 350 into a Mazda.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/3a323f02.jpg

So is it odd that i netted 3" of drop? I feel better knowing it's correctable at least. Should the bump stops be trimmed now? How much?

Thanks!
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Re: 2" lower in front, Bags in rear. What shocks to run? New shocks needed in front?
 

If the bump stops don't limit the travel, what will? That helps answer the the question of trimming bump-stops or not.

On my 68 (6cyl/3spd) w/drop spindles & 1-coil cut, I trimmed .500" off the bump-stops & it rarely made 'harsh' contact. By keeping the trimming minimal, it kept other things from hitting.

On my 74 (350/th350) w/drop spindles & 1-coil cut, I trimmed the same amount & it hit..... all the time. The front tires (basically same 27-ish inch tire height for both trucks) constantly buzzed the top of the inner fenderwells. It was annoying for a daily driver. I wound up putting new, un-cut bump-stops back in place. I had less free travel before they made contact (about .500"), but it kept the tires from constantly hitting.

That minimal clearance amount did suck on crappy roads but that was my trade off (it also prevented the bottom of the suspnsion from bottoming out most of the time).

Try driving it w/o cutting them & see how it feels. Use that experience to determine if you should cut or not. If you cut, do small amounts (easier to cut more than replacing them & starting over).