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camshaft and distributor
I have a comp roller stick and bronze distributor gear that is wearing on one side of the gear. 005 end play on the camshaft and .010 play on the distributor up and down without the gasket. thinking that the can was machined wrong was wondering if anyone has ran into this problem before? I will post pics. tomorrow.
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Re: camshaft and distributor
Yes, I had this happen with my 421. I ran a bronze gear in that motor and after some street driving and about a years worth of racing, there was quite a bit of wear showing on the gear. When I built this 434, I had Cam Motion use a cast gear on the cam so that I could do the same on the distributor.
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Re: camshaft and distributor
The bronze gears don't last very long with a billet cam. Switching to a cam with an iron gear allows you to use a stock type gear for long lasting use.
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I have been running a bronze gear for years and know You can get a good race season out of it. I know I have a problem less that a 100 miles on it and regardless it shouldn't be wearing only one side of the gear. thanks though!
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Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.
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Some times to high of oil pressure can start chewing them up.
If your cam end play is good I'm not sure. |
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When you built the engine were the heads and intake decked any? I use distributors with the adjustable sleeve to set the depth and check the pattern like you would a ring gear to ensure the the distributor is at the right depth. To shallow or 2 deep will cause them to wear quick. A pic of the pattern on the teeth of the gear would help tell the story.
Jimmy |
Re: camshaft and distributor
The gear on the distributor looks like a pinion that was making contact with a ring gear on a bent carrier. The gear is only making contact with half of the gear (bottom) on one side and making contact with the whole gear on the other.
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Re: camshaft and distributor
ttt for suggestions.
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Who does a good job on custom camshafts? Comp cams in on my bad list now looking for someone else.
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Re: camshaft and distributor
Not sure who all does them but some of the new rollers dont require a bronze gear.
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jayallen@comcast.net will get dirrectly to him, or his business site is: http://www.camshaftinnovations.com/Default.htm |
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ok guys I ordered the cast gear and sent it to comp to have it cut for my cam. It has been installed for about 100 street miles and back to square one. I have called comp back and they said that the intake manifold is offset to one side. "?" that a intake manifold alignment tool should be used to insure that the intake is installed square to the block? Has anyone heard of this?
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Anyone mess with a composite gears? I haven't just curious.
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what else could I check before I go back together?
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The howards rollers allow use of a cast gear.. I have seen that wear inthe past, engine had a aluminum cam button that had wron and the cam starts walking, hence worn bronze gear.
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Re: camshaft and distributor
it has a comp cam roller button that has been milled down so the cam has .005 end play with the timing cover installed.
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Thanks guys for all the input I am going to go back together with the new custom cam and new gear tomorrow. Wish me luck! I am going to open up the intake bolt holes a little and take a little more time installing it.
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got the cam in/degree,checked the installed lift on the exhaust/intake, slip colar distributor is on the way. Check check and rechecked everything!
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What kind of timing cover are you using and any support to keep it from flexing? A stamped tin cover is not going to hold that button in place, and even a good heavy aluminum cover like the Cloyes quick Button moves around a LOT. Cloyes says to set their button at ZERO clearance because of the thermal expansion of the aluminum cover. In driver motors I've built a 'spacer' to put between the waterpump and tin cover to keep it from flexing,, used a heavy cast cover,, and eventually went to a jessel belt system that has a retainer. (all with small block stuff tho)
A bronze gear has no place on the street IMO,, at least not for 'regular' use. Lots of rollers on the street in 'limited' cruiser use, but these days upi can get a hydraulic rolelr that is darn near as aggressive as a solid, and a hell of a lot more street friendly than a solid. Did you talk to the cam grinder about the melonized gear? Most billet cores will treat a melonized gear kinder on the street than a bronze gear. But you have to discuss that with the grinder. Some will, some wont stand behind the cam if you run one. |
Re: camshaft and distributor
Oh wait,, is that a gear drive I see???? Dude, the distributor gear is just one item you might want to consider 'disposable' (my 2¢ and I'll shut up now)
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Marv is spot on..
For a "street" engine that will see a small amount of track time. It is hard to beat the new hyd roller cams. The dist drive gear is standard so a normal dist gear works fine and will last. I have run the bronze, and kelvar what evers and none will last like the stock gear. Running valve train gets old very fast. And many hyd rollers are not going to limit the RPM ...again for the hot street engine. cover wise milidon makes a nice item... I should have gone with one but I have a cast cover. The tin covers move a ton. That is only going to create more issues with dist timing and gear, oil pump etc. I wont go into the gear drive.. maybe marv can post pics of what they do... |
Re: camshaft and distributor
The truck will see min. street miles and blasted at the track. The timing cover is a aluminumn heavy duty one and the gear is a melonized gear now. The pattern is a little off on the intake so I have made an appointment at the machine shop to have the intake milled and port matched to the cylinder head. I had payed for the port work when the engine was at the machine shop before and the heads got done but the intake wasn't matched.
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