Engine paint question
 

Hello, I am currently painting my engine. I used VHT high temp primer (2 coats) and have just put one coat of Chevy orage/red. There is an orage peel texture to the block and the head. I was so excited about getting my engine back and moving along with the project, I didn't even give the texture a second though until someone asked, "didn't you even sand it?" Should I be concerned with the texture? Can I sand after the first coat of color? Thanks for the feedback.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Its probaly going to be a little textured bc of the casting I would think.

Re: Engine paint question
 

unless it is strictly a show truck, put it together and enjoy it, looks good from here

Re: Engine paint question
 

Instead of sanding, I would try a red/maroon scuff pad to smooth the surface and get down in the "grain" of the casting texture. Sanding will just hit the high spots. Practice spraying paint on a junk part or cardboard; try to lay the paint on evenly with wet coats so that the paint is thick enough to flow together and smooth out. It took me 3 rattle cans to paint a 292 this way but the results were worth it.
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Re: Engine paint question
 

Hmm, all of the rattle-can engine paints I've used don't require a primer and seem to flow pretty well if sprayed correctly. A simple trick that works well to boost pressure and make paint flow even better is to run hot water over the can for a bit just before spraying. The texture on the block is going to be there no matter what you do. If you are getting excessive orange peel on stuff such as the valve covers and other sheet metal, then I suggest your paint technique needs some more practice. I usually start with one very light tack coat, followed by at least two heavier wet coats.

Re: Engine paint question
 

yeah, i'm a little confused - are you saying you HAVE orange peel or that the texture of the block (normal for a casting) FEELS like orange peel?

If you actually have the op, then yes, there's a problem. If you just have rough texture, then that is perfectly normal, no need to sand it down (unless, as suggested, you're doing a show truck). The factory didn't sand squat, just squirt & go! And oem4me's advice is good to go - a light tack coat first is very important I think. If your first coat is heavy, you're in for some peeling and flaking.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Follow th direction on the can VERY closely. My Duplicolor high heat engine paint states, apply several light coats instead of one heavy coat. Allow 10 minutes of dry time between coats ( will be longer if temperature is low and humidity is high ) apply all coats within one hour of start. Wait one week after the initial hour to recoat.

I have learned the directions to be critical and there is very little deviation allowed, or you paint will seperate, lift, or bubble. giving you the orange peel look.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Just start sanding it might take a few years but you'll get it smooth eventually. The guy who suggested sanding is either Goofy or Daffy Duck, really I've never heard of such a thing good luck with the sanding. Just paint it and be done with it...Vernski:lol:

Re: Engine paint question
 

I agree with Sig and Vern. IF you want body finish smooth break out the flapper wheels and grind the casting smooth - Show Truck. Use high fill primer and take your time. Don't know how long it will last but smooth and glossy it can be. On the other hand if it is truly orange peal - practice, practice, practice. I have never had OP with a rattle can that was excessive but I have had a lot of practice.

Re: Engine paint question
 

His block looks to as if it ( the paint ) fish eyed on him if you look in the bottom of the crank area, maybe had a little oil bleed thru the primer....

Re: Engine paint question
 

I agree... paint will do that also if youn dont allow a little time betweeen coats to let the solvents bleed off

Re: Engine paint question
 

If it is Fish-Eye my experience has been contaminates on the surface before paint is applied. Wash the bare block with soap and water and a scrub brush. Let dry and then laquer thinner so you Know there is no contaminates before priming. Metal is porus and will absorb moisture and oils.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Thanks for all the feedback. Taking alook at it now, I am thinking that the lighting and the fact that the paint was still wet may have scared me a bit. I was taking the pic in the garage with a halogen lamp behind me. Take a look at it now and let me know what you think.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Vernski, I like the way you think. That's pretty much exactly what my Dad said too. "Well, where's his freakin truck?!" to the guy who asked if I sanded it or not. LOL!

Re: Engine paint question
 

I think it looks great.

I bought some POR15 brush on engine paint on a dare. I painted my intake and was blown away at how good it looks. I won't get to the block for a while, but for brush on, I am happy.

No primer, 2 coats (takes FOREVER to dry)
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-18092550.jpg

Re: Engine paint question
 

Jimmydean, yes looks really sharp! Very nice!

Re: Engine paint question
 

Don't put por 15 on nothing you don't want it on cause it's a bear if you want to take it off
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Re: Engine paint question
 

Hey Goldie Your block looks just fine, couldn't have done better myself good job. Some people are just full of:m3: it, like they say everyone has an opinion. I love those in-lines though, what size is yours?...Vernski:mm:

Re: Engine paint question
 

It's a 230. I just got it rebuilt and balanced. I have a Offenhauser dual intake and two carter weber carbs to bolt on and I got some Langdon cast iron headers too. I can't wait to see what it sounds like. I have some pics in the gallery. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...&ppuser=104648

Re: Engine paint question
 

Your motor should run real nice with the dual Weber's plus the Langdon headers, it will sound real sweet with Cherri bombs on it, if you want it not so loud put Smitty's on it it's music to the ear's. Mine is a 230 also in my GMC it has a Mercruiser boat cam, Cllifford 4v intake, Edelbrock 1404 carb with the Langdon headers. The cam idles smooth but has a wicked mid range and pulls like a tractor. The only thing I need now is a HEI witch will come as the money tree permits...Vernski

Re: Engine paint question
 

Forgot to post my engine pic...vernski:gmc2:

Re: Engine paint question
 

Vernski: Yes, I found myself having to prune the money tree a bit this year. Fortunately, my wife has a green thumb. This was her grandfather's truck. He bought it in '63 so she is fully onboard with the rebuild which makes things a little easier when asking for the checkbook. She is working on cleaning up the valve cover an side covers now. She is going to paint them with a black wrinkle paint.

Your rig looks real nice! The mercruiser cam sounds really cool. I will have to read more about that. How long have you had her? I was conflicted about changing the cam in ours. Wanted to stay close to stock for now though. Original plan was to make a bit of a sleeper. Just got the radiator redone over the weekend. Had the core replaced and an extra row added. Looks real good.

Re: Engine paint question
 

Sounds like you have a keeper both the truck and your wife. Cool history on the truck and that's worth allot. I've had my truck about 6 years now still allot of work to do I'm doing mine a little at a time as money permits...Vernski:mm:

http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/merc/merc5.htm