14 bolt 9.5" with play
 

My Suburban has 400,000 miles on it and the wheel bearings have play. On one side though, I also can slide the wheel in and out 1-2 mm. I have not had time to take it apart yet, but where the bearing sits, is it usual for the shaft to be worn down? Or is it a c-clip problem?

This axle also is in need of a new pinion axle bearing. (Have purchased that already) Been thinking about swapping to a full float 14 bolt. This would be cheaper then a new semi float shaft and bearings where I live. But if so, which one? G30 from a van, would be wider to match the front wheels maybe? Or crew cab axle? I know I have to if so weld new spring attachment points. Or should I go for 4x4 pick up which bolt right on.

Re: 14 bolt 9.5" with play
 

Both. Sliding the wheel in and out is a C-clip problem, but it's also not an uncommon problem for the axle to be worn out where the bearing sits. I was searching a junkyard a couple weeks back for a useable axle shaft for a Ford 8.8, and the six or so axles I had time to disassemble all had severe pitting and wear at the bearing.

The full float 14 bolt is definitely a stronger axle, but if your suburban has 400,000 miles, this doesn't sound like an extreme-duty offroad crawler, this sounds like a daily driver. The semi-floater is plenty strong enough for the stock tire size or even a mild lift, and all the highway driving and even towing that you'll ever need. The only time you'll see an advantage with a full-floater is with giant tires buried in three feet of mud, or locked up against a rock and you're using low gearing to put huge torque on it to crawl up the rock.

I'd be looking for the same axle and do a simple bolt-on swap without any complications.

Re: 14 bolt 9.5" with play
 

Ok, thank you for the advice. So it is a common problem on c-clip axles with worn shafts,
but a 4x4 k20 pick up with a full floater would be a direct swap except drive shaft length wouldn't it?