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-   -   I Have To Drive The Ford Today (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=506618)

1972RedNeck 02-01-2012 09:40 AM

I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Yesterday when I went to start my truck it wouldn't. It sounds like it only is firing on one cylinder. It has gas to the carburetor, and I have switched carbs. I think it has something to do with ignition. It has HEI. When modules have gone bad before, they won't fire at all. Could the coil be bad? Any other ideas?

mpotts64 02-01-2012 09:48 AM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Mine did the same thing when I forgot to run a new 12 volt dedicated wire to the hei and get rid of the restricted wire. Put in a new 283 and forgot to run the wire, it lasted about 600 miles then it was on, no more run. Ran a new wire and runs like a sewing machine.

grancuda 02-01-2012 11:04 AM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Modules will do a partial fire.

1972RedNeck 02-01-2012 11:50 AM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mpotts64 (Post 5159508)
Mine did the same thing when I forgot to run a new 12 volt dedicated wire to the hei and get rid of the restricted wire. Put in a new 283 and forgot to run the wire, it lasted about 600 miles then it was on, no more run. Ran a new wire and runs like a sewing machine.

I did run a new wire after I had the same problem.


Quote:

Originally Posted by grancuda (Post 5159615)
Modules will do a partial fire.


I carry a spare in the toolbox. I'll swap it in and try it.

68gmsee 02-01-2012 12:18 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
I guess anything is possible but I've never had a module partially fire.

It's easy enough to check if all the wires are firing with a spare plug and clamp grounded to the engine. Or, a timing light clamped to the wire while cranking.

Also check for pin hole in rotor, loose crimps or loose electrical connections.

awbrown 02-01-2012 01:52 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Using the "F" word on the Chevy forum..Can't believe you didn't walk to work , now you made a fool of your self.. LOL

57larry 02-01-2012 06:36 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
why do you even own a ford?

68gmsee 02-01-2012 07:00 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Alright guys, he didn't have to say he drove the F@rd. He could have just posted the problem. The way I understand it seems that he's disappointed in having to drive the F@rd.

Now it's time to help him with his problem. It's a legitimate post and he want's some answers.

1972RedNeck 02-01-2012 07:08 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 68gmsee (Post 5160394)
Alright guys, he didn't have to say he drove the F@rd. He could have just posted the problem. The way I understand it seems that he's disappointed in having to drive the F@rd.

Correct. I like driving my GMC whenever possible. My ford is my work truck. My grandpa bought it new in '66. It has sentimental value.

I tried running a wire directly from the battery to the dizzy (still dead). I will go inspect the cap/rotor and swap modules.

DT1 02-01-2012 08:13 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
I have a Delco HEI in mine and the modules fail often. All of the failures occur after I shut the engine down. It's such a common occurrence, I know if I crank the engine for more than 10 seconds, it means the module is dead. I have tried every brand of module out there and none seem to be any better than others. I always keep a spare module in the truck.
A few months back I installed a PerTronix D2070 Race Module. It only draws 7.5 amps and it has actually lasted at least 3x longer than any other.

1972RedNeck 02-01-2012 08:58 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Just swapped in the module. Runs like a top. I only have about 1,500 miles on it. I used lots of dielectric grease too. I wonder if we can buy USA ones?

awbrown 02-01-2012 10:26 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Most of the time if it is eating modules , it means something is not up to snuff.. marginal wires , cap rotor , something is taxing the system and the module is the first thing to go ....

DT1 02-01-2012 11:16 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck (Post 5160598)
Just swapped in the module. Runs like a top. I only have about 1,500 miles on it. I used lots of dielectric grease too. I wonder if we can buy USA ones?

Dielectric is not what you want. You need heatsink grease. From what I've read, the failures are caused when the heat builds up during long periods of idling or after the engine is turned off and the heat builds up on the contact plate.
I'm also quite sure nothing is amiss with my wiring.

1972RedNeck 02-01-2012 11:52 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DT1 (Post 5160958)
Dielectric is not what you want. You need heatsink grease. From what I've read, the failures are caused when the heat builds up during long periods of idling or after the engine is turned off and the heat builds up on the contact plate.
I'm also quite sure nothing is amiss with my wiring.

They send a tiny little packet of grease with the modules. This must be heatsink grease? It barely cover half of the bottom so I used dielectric grease assuming that is what was in the package.

Where can I buy heatsink grease?

My wiring is up to par. The cap and rotor are new too.

GRX 02-01-2012 11:59 PM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Dielectric = non-conductive. The stuff included acts as a sealer and meant to be applied sparingly. Which is why they give you such a small amount.

Heat sink grease (aka-thermal grease) can be had many places. There a Radio Shack near you? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102858

And I own a Fox Body Mustang by the way. In addition to what's in my sig. :mm:

mud.man.rj 02-02-2012 12:03 AM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Your throwin me off thinking with the f word, if not module chech the pickup coil wires, one could be broken and "just" contacting, happened to me and it sounded like one cyl firing.

RanchTruck 02-02-2012 04:15 AM

Re: I Have To Drive The Ford Today
 
Make sure the ground strap between the coil and the middle pin of the connector coming up from the module is there.

The coil is strong enough to arc the inch and change from it's body to the connector pin without that ground strap, but that will kill coils and modules.

The missing ground strap and missing heat sink grease are the two main killers.


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