setting valves
 

i have my motor broke in and about 6 miles on it around town i think i should recheck my valve i have hydraulic flat tappet lifters how do i check valves since the lifters are pumped up now

Re: setting valves
 

Lifters should have been pumped up a few seconds after first starting the engine. If you did the adjustments correctly there's no need to recheck at this time unless they're making noise.

Re: setting valves
 

thanks that what i thought to but u cant be to safe this was my first motor i ever built alot of overtime money went into this thing and u cant be to safe lol

Re: setting valves
 

Exhaust valve starting to close do the intake and intake staring to open do exhaust. I think. Ill have to look on my shop fridge tomarrow.. I also only go a half turn past zero lash or when the pushrod stops turning...
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Re: setting valves
 

That would be backwards, it is the E-O, I-C method.

Do one cylinder at a time, rotate engine with breaker bar and socket on dampener.

Rotate engine until the exhaust on the cylinder you are setting just begins to OPEN, SET THAT CYLINDER'S INTAKE VALVE.

When done setting that intake valve, rotate engine around, exhaust will open and close, along with the intake you just set

When that intake valve just CLOSES, SET THE EXHAUST VALVE.

Go on to the next cylinder, repeat.

I usually do that when I am still building the engine, with the intake manifold off, so I can see the lifters move in the block. If yo take your time and look closely, it can be done by watching the push rod's movement as well.

This E-O, I-C method works on every camshaft ever made, no matter the type and/or grind specification. It is the only method that gets every cam lobe directly in the center of the heel of the cam, just where you want to set valves.

Another thing I sometimes do is to "Create A Specification". Let's say you are doing a solid lifter cam valve adjustment, and the specification calls for a HOT valve setting. Well, problem is, the engine cools way off while you are setting the valves. So, easier to set those valves cold, but what clearance specification setting?

Well,this is where we create, make our own clearance up. Warm engine to operating temp, run vehicle around if possible, get it hot. Come back to the garage, pull the easiest to get to valve cover, do a HOT E-O, I-C setting to the correct clearance. Let's say the hot settings are I-.012, E-.014. Set that one pair of valves hot, one cylinder.

Go do something else, let the vehicle get cold, as in over night, you are done on the car for the day. Come back out the next morning, rotate the engine over cold, by hand, at least three complete revolutions. Do a E-O, I-C cold read on those two valves. Let's say the intake went from .012, down to .008, and the exhaust went from .014, down to .009, THESE are your new "Create A Specification" COLD valve setting clearances.

Set the rest of the valves using the new cold settings. All uniform, all good, no burns, hot to warm as the engine cooled off, no oily mess.

After all that, go drive and enjoy that thing, you earned it.

Re: setting valves
 

I have to agree ....if it runs good, & no noise, I would let it run for a few miles;) As far as adjustment, I like to do the final set on a flat tappet hydrolic running( my ears are better than my eyes). :lol: At any rate, I have a set of stock covers (complete with junk gaskets), that I have cut a window in the top. I warm the eng up, then swap to my windowed covers. . Its important to leave the eng @ idle , if you dont want to clean oil of EVERYTHING! I do 1 bank at a time....lossen ea rocker , till you hear the click, then snug em down till the click just stops. Same thing on the next bank, now you are @ zero lash. Shut it down, & give it 1/2 turn.....DO NOT start it, walk away for 15-20 minutes & have a beer(let the plungers bleed down). Now fire it 1 more time, with your windowed covers still in place. If she sounds good....go have another beer, & let the booger cool down! At this point, if you have not had too many beers...put the valve covers back on & call it a day. Do NOT take the truck for a ride (Barney frowns on the beer drinkin & drivin deal):lol: You just have to burn up the road tommorro....but Barney sort of frowns on that also....(dont get caught):lol: crazyL

Re: setting valves
 

I couldnt remember the way it went. I haven't touched my valves in 3 years after doing it...
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Re: setting valves
 

See I had it wrote down. Lol..
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Re: setting valves
 

thanks guys i think i will leave it alone then i think the little knock i hear is the exhaust bouncing off thing i just got it to idle around 800 and it sounds alot different i just have block huggers on it till next friday then i am getting the magnaflows put on if i hear the noise after that then i know there could be a problem lol but for now why mess with a good thing :metal:

Re: setting valves
 

That is how I have always adjusted my flat tappet hydraulic set ups. The slotted valve covers really cuts down on oil sling. Have one for each of my engines.

Re: setting valves
 

On initial setup....engine build, I follow what Dave has to say (nice read by the way Dave);) After that, its easier for me to set em by ear. I dont do this every day, & many guys dont.....I dont have to try to remember, just listen & its right on;) Just trying to offer an easier way , for the backyard maniac! It has worked for me , for many" moons"? Thanks GRX :chevy: crazyL

:tms: Both methods are correct, and each has it's advantages. Using a windowed valve cover to adjust flat tappet hydraulic valve trains while the engine is running is an accepted method which goes back WAY before these SBC engines were even invented. In fact, many companies sell oil deflecting rocker arm clips for just that purpose.
Here are two such examples:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-140355
http://www.spiderautomotive.com/rockerarmclips.html

Re: setting valves
 

I have done it both ways. I'm an old timer and learned from working on engines with friends way back in the 60's. The first time I replaced hydraulic lifters the recommended way was to adjust with engine running: Turn the adj nut out until lifter starts to click, tighten until clicking just stops, turn adj nut in 1/4 turn increments. Wait after each 1/4 turn until engine smoothes out before next 1/4 turn and do it 3/4 turns.

The new procedure as HEi mentioned is by far the easiest and least messy. On a new rebuild it's the method I use. However, old ways are hard to break and I have to admit every now and then I do the engine running method if I just need to replace valve stem seals on an engine that's not being rebuilt. I use the valve cover method and I also have clips that I can use if needed.

Re: setting valves
 

The EO IC method is definately the preferred method. On a new engine letting it run at idle long enough to set the valves with the running method can and will kill a fresh cam. I always use the EO IC method because its faster,more precise and a hell of a lot less messy.

Anyone up for Golf?

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