Block help...
 

I have a 2 bolt 350 and in wanting to build a some what dependable supercharged 383 and found a block ( casting 10066086) it's a 4 bolt. Is it a good block to build. Or what casting numbers do I need to be looking for?
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Re: Block help...
 

How much power you trying to make?

Re: Block help...
 

The 'right' block to start with is called a Dart Little M if your building something that really needs a blower to realize the power potential. You can quite easily get 600HP out of a normally aspirated 383 and that is FAR beyond the 370HP 'rating' of any GM production sbc casting.

However I believe whet your looking at there is really a 10066036 casting that was born as a target master 350 "Heco in Mexico" adobe 2piece rear main, non roller block. Could be 2 or 4 bolt mains. and 'could' survive upwards of 500-600HP as long as you thouroughly check wall thickness and watch RPM's. The internals will be more of a weak link at 500HP then the block,, the block will be more if a weak link than the internals at 600HP (assuming you build the rotator to be tolerant of 600HP)

Either way, RPM kills more motors than brute power. Know what your doing before building a forced induction motor of the upper 600-700HP flavor.

Re: Block help...
 

Powerlevel and budget are needed . I personally dont run the "old" motors . I run the 14093638 TBI 4 bolt roller cam 1 pc. or 10243880 Vortec 4 bolt 1pc seal roller cam block .

As Marv said Little M is the way to go and if your buying the block , crank rads and pistons might as well have the cubic inches . Just my $ .02

Re: Block help...
 

Thanks guys I'm wanting around 600 to 700 at the wheels.
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Re: Block help...
 

I'd take the 2 bolt block and have it fitted for splayed 4 bolt caps and ARP fasteners - it will be stronger than a factory 4 bolt block.

Make sure the block is solid though, before sinking any $ into it.

Re: Block help...
 

LS or BBC

Re: Block help...
 

After rethinking this LSX is the only way i would go .

Re: Block help...
 

Procharged 427" LSX ,, 800+ crank HP to get you the desired 700 at the wheels. It's becoming a pretty common FAST EFI deal. Lots of base maps out there now. But a $25-30k+ price tag by the time your done ain't uncommon either.

As much as it pains me to say this,, 671 blown 468 big block will be your cheapest / reliable route to your goal. When you start force feeding a motor you don't have to have mega buck trick heads to make the big HP numbers. Just crank up the boost to compensate for any head deficiency. ;)

A 700+HP 383 is not a candidate for ANY production GM SBC casting,, sorry. I've dumped the $1300 into a sonic checked GM production casting with splayed mains, deck plugs, short fill, bla bla bla..... all to have the deck and bores fail. It's just not worth the gamble. Do it right the FIRST time is a lot cheaper than over and over.

Re: Block help...
 

I have learned alot from stalking Kevin and Marv on this site. While the rotating assembly is critical pay close attention to your valve train choice too. And then you need to get all that whoop ass through the trans and to the ground. Just how big of a budget are you thinking? With enough $ anything, almost...is possible.

Re: Block help...
 

Thanks guys guess I needed to spend more time at the drawing board.
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Re: Block help...
 

I know about that drawing board deal.