What needs to be done for a 6" lift?
 

I just got a 77 blazer w/stock rallys - 15x8.5
Looking to lift in about 4 months.

Was going to go 33 or 35 on a 4" but maybe I should just 6" - easy to run over hondas.
Discount Tire has 35s for like $166 or so, like the same price as 33s

Do most ppl have 4" because 6" is a pain?

4" is about the max size without having to replace brake hoses, steering parts and adding length to driveshafts. The lift install itself isn't that difficult, it just starts to get more expensive.

You can get buy with a 4" lift and stock driveshafts. With a 6", you have to lengthen the driveshafts.
Also, the CV joint likes to bind on the front.
You need longer brakelines even with a 4", despite what the sales guys may tell you. It's not safe.
-- Mike

Lifting is never cheap, especially when done right. The previous owner of my truck put on a 4" w/ 33s and had the driveshafts lengthened, and installed a raised steering arm. The stock brake hoses barely reached when sitting on level ground. When I restored the truck I put on 6" longer lines expecting to go higher. When I put on my 6" lift the rear driveshaft fit fine and the front barely reached, but after some pretty good wheelin it hasn't come apart yet. The parking brake cables didn't reach and the steering arm was barely high enough. A planned driveshaft e-brake and crossover steering will be my fix. Personally I like 33s with a 4" and 35s with a 6". You can stuff bigger but I like to be able to twist it up good without hitting the body.

A cheap brake line fix I found when lifting a friends '78 is to buy 6" or 8" hard lines and splice them between the frame and hose with a bracket to drop them down and hold them in place.

Best of luck, Jim

Thanks for all the advice.:)

Why go 6 when you can go 10?
 

:D

We wanted to lift our old 72' Sub. We thought we would be happy with a 4" lift. But as the project went on we ended up going with 10 1/2". And getting 40" Tires.

This has been a 2 month project on a Daily Driver.

daily driver with boggers? i hope you have a loud stereo

Why Yes We Do! LOL
With Boggers, 4 kids and dogs.... You Betch Ya!

Looks awesome. I hear you... if you going big you might as well go BIG! Since mine won't be a daily driver I'll be looking into it.

I have found that at advanced auto there stock replacent front brake hoses were 3 inches longer than my original gm uniot ;) so for 9.99 a side I have the correct lenght hoses for my 4 inch lift. If you like AI can check on the brand name sometime.

Samsclub.com has 35" BFGs for $139 each delivered to your local sam's club. 33s are $128. At my local sam's club mounting/balancing/warranty is $10.50 a tire.

Your probably going to want to get the steering box reinforcement, especailly if you go with 35's or larger. The second gen + Blazers are notorious for cracking the frame at the steering box. The bigger the tires, the more likely hood of bump steer too. If you plan on taking it off road and running 35's, your probably going to want the 6" lift. If it is a street machine, you can probably get away with the 4".

CK5.com has a part number for longer brake lines from NAPA. Suppose to be long enough for a 6" - 8" lift.

M/T's or A/T's? I want to put 35" BFG M/T's on my truck after the 4" lift is complete. I'm putting a raised steering arm and dual stabilizers and extended brake lines on mine with the 4" lift. A good kit should come with brake line brackets and a raised steering arm.

Their the All Terrains on the site, but I believe if you goto a sam's club store they'll have the mud terrains.

Try this http://www.samsclub.com/eclub/dept_c...&cnpOID=-25141
35" Dunlop radial mudder $116

Are the mud-rovers good tires? Tirerack has them for less I think, but i'm a little wary of such cheap tires and if they will perform decent. I have heard the BFG mud terrains do very good.

I'v asked several people about 35's with 4" of lift and they think it will work fine since i'll be running 12.5" tires with a 8" rim with somewhere between 3.5-4" of BS. If I have to i'll do a little cutting of the fenders. I don't want to lift it too high to keep the center of gravity low but would like to run at least 35" tires for now to get my differentials away from those damn rocks. If the 4" suspension won't clear it then I may add a 2" body to get a total of 6" to easily clear the 35's.

Keeping the center of gravity low is a good idea. I didn't enjoy rolling my Blazer!!! :D Fortunately, the 'light bar' held up the roof!!!

Also, reinforcing the frame on the '73 up trucks is also a good idea. Alot easier, IMO, than fixing the cracks!!!

Im thinking about buying one, of the later model trucks myself, to use for more serious 4X4ing. I just can't bear to cut up the fenders, on the '72. Plus, replacement parts are getting scarce, and $$$...

-Marty

You can get brand new aftermarket fenders for 73-87 truck for100 bucks each, so i'm not afraid of cutting mine on my 85. Later model sheetmetal is easy to find in good shape though. I'm hoping that with 4" of lift and 35x12,5" tires that actually measure 34.1" they'll fit without cutting.

you could go with 4 inch susp. and 3 inch body but i think it messes with center of gravity

Actually just lifting the body rather than the whole frame would be better for center of gravity. I don't think having 7" of lift i'm going to be too concerned with center of gravity. I can always have somebody spot me in hairy situations and tie off a strap just in case to keep it from going over. But going with 4" suspension and 3" body might not be a bad idea, I should be able to run 36 or 37" tires with 7" of lift.

Skyjacker 6" all spring lift:
http://www.truckworld.com/How-To-Tec...uspension.html

my '70 k10 with a 4" lift clears 35"s just fine

I think i'm gonna put 35's on my truck with 4" lift. They actually measure 34.1" anyway. Plus I see all these guys running even bigger tires on 4" of lift and some trimming. I don't think i'll have a problem especially on 15x8's and only 12.5" tires.