New Toy!!!
 

OK, so I helped out a friend with some work around the garage and he said that he would pay me. So about four hours later and a couple beers, I seen a 350 block that he had sitting over in the corner of the garage along with a few other goodies. I asked what he wanted for it and he said it could be my payment for the help, so I grabbed it. Its bored .30 over and I am going to build a 383 stroker. Any advice or opinions will be helpful and I will be asking alot of questions guys.

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Congrats on the block. What kind of numbers are you hoping to get from it? Mild to wild, 383s can be suited for any need depending on your budget.

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Thanks man, I want like to get about 450 horse out of it. I have another friend that is going to sell me an auburn clutch posi to beef it up alil more. its a 2 bolt main will that affect anything? And Im not in really any big hurry to get it done, and im thinking about 5 grand build. What can I do with that kind of budget?

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Quite honestly I'd never even think of stroking a motor without it being a four-bolt main. It's a good thing though that it's two bolt though because you can buy a set of splayed main bearing caps and get it machined, much stronger than the factory straight four bolt mains. Hopefully you know someone who can do all your machining for a fair price.

Five grand should get you pretty far but dont hold me to it cause every build is different. 450 Horses will cost you though, so budget everything out before-hand. To get those kinds of numbers though you're going to need some bad ass heads. Luckily for small blocks aftermarket aluminium sets are pretty affordable.

Try researching some 383 builds with the numbers you're looking for and see how/what parts were used in the builds. Always a good way to start.

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Solid bottom end and spend the money (make horse power) in the heads as mentioned. I would consider starting with a later model (91-95 give or take) roller block. Much cheaper than converting yours to a roller and now days really no reason not to run a roller. Speed Pro forged flat tops are good pistons that will handle most of what you throw at them, achieve reasonable/streetable compression and are relatively inexpense. Check into aluminum rods (Eagles, BMEs, or what ever a notable SBC rod is) might be an upgrade if you buy a stroker kit. Tru-roller chain, fight rolling resistence and resipricating weight everywhere you can. Degree the cam and balance the assembly and find a machinist that is familiar with performance builds, have them assembly the shortblock at a minimum unless you are experience, assembling an engine isn't a big deal but assembling one right is.

Heads are all over the board, look at some of the shut outs or go with a know combination and I would look at a dual plane intake for good streetable/usable horsepower, 69 Z/28/Vette (and a few other years ran it) intake is a great one. The carburate it to match what the heads flow. Port matching and port clean up is a plus.

Good hot ignition, good exhaust and your set. I use to run header extensions behind headers and cut them where the tape burned off and finish out with 2.5 out the rear. An engine is nothing more than an air pump, the more air you can pump the more power you make but you can only take in what you can get out. Many people over look this fact when building a vehicle for performance.

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this is all great info guys I thinking about buying the stroker kits to start. I am going to assemble it all myself with my dad since we never really had a father son project together. im thinking about going to a roller set up with the alum heads and rods, doing a three angled valve job on the heads and having my personal machinest hook me up with the other parts when they flow in. here are a few pics of it now. I am going to buy a stand this weekend and Ill take a few more pics first major thing is cleaning up some light rust here and there. QUESTION, should i paint the block before or after i assemble it?

Attachment 1053513
Attachment 1053514

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Personal preference and sometimes according to the equipment you're running, ie chrome/aluminum oil pan, aluminum heads, chrome/aluminum timing cover, chrome or black bolts. If running mostly stock acessories I will prime and maybe one coat paint the block, heads and other pieces and then do 2 coats paint after the assembly so all my bolts are painted.

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Ok well im thinking that I am going to paint it after a address the small rust issues. I think accented bolts would look killer. What color should I do on the block? chrome everything else was already in the plans.

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Painting before machining might make you feel good but it will all come off when hot tanked for inspection and machining. As far as color that is your choice, go stock, go old school, custom to match the truck or just a perticular look because you like it (my son does all of his cast color).

Have fun.

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Don't go buy a stand Drew. I have an extra one you can use.
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Oh ok man thats freaking awesome i didnt know how much i would be paying. Mopar i could be wrong here but here in oklahoma i dont think that we have to pass inspection.:metal:

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Inspection by the machinist for cracks, deck square, line bores and magnifluxing of the heads and rods (if you are gonna use them), not emissions or safety inspection. Hot tanking is a cleaning process by which they ALL the oil, dirt and most anything else off of components, the block and heads in this case.


Here in Florida we don't inspect vehicles either, you can drive junk we don't care.

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:lol: oh ok. What will a bath cost me for this thing roughly do you think? Do i need to take out the freeze plugs and bearings to do it? I heard it called an acid bath and it also helps it get rid of rust. I do have a few small surface rust spots on the inside of the cyclinders.

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The shop will handle it, but yes disassembled and only the hard parts (generally you are replacing the rings and bearings at the least anyway, most will require pistons as well, so no need to wash these parts) go in the tank. Genericly I would say hot tank and inspection of a disassembled engine will be between $50-100, more if they have to disassemble. If you have some one you do business with, many/most of the time they wont charge you in anticipation of getting the machine work. VERY few will attempt machine work or inspection on dirty parts, anyone who did I would worry about.

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Ok i will remove the bearings out myself. I was told i dont have to remove the freeze plugs when doing this bath, is that true?

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It can better clean the passages it the plugs are out, you are gonna replace them anyway so why not. It is best to take it as a bare block and heads, bare as in everything possible removed. Typically I will strip and inspect before I send it to machine shop, no reason to send them junk whether I am paying or using a favor. Anything that is to be replaced, ie lifters, rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain and gears, freeze plugs, etc. go straight to the scrap bin.


I have on occasion left the heads assembled if I was just cleaning them but then I disassembled for clean up to get ALL the chemical out of everything.

I rebuild is a serious tear down, cleaning, machining and replacement of any wear part or questionable hard part. To build a 383 with 400+ horses it will be some serious work. I would not start until I was prepared to finsih (have the money ready), machining a block and sitting it in the corner is not a good idea.

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For 5 large, you could almost do an LS swap and make more power.

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Well I really just want to build the block to get some experience under my belt mainly. Mopar these are brand new freeze plugs and crank bearings once i take them both out can i reinstall them or is more advisable to buy new ones again?

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After reading this it sounded a little rough so let me clarify I don't mean anything by it but I think it needs to be sounds:

I would not reuse them in a build, but I would also not tear down a fresh build. Was it a fresh build or just someone put fresh bearings in an old engine? Are those the parts in the pictures above? Was the block prepped or just had plugs knocked in it. The pistons obviously are old, where are the new bearings? Is it just the cam bearings? Has it been assembled since the pictures?

I think you need to decide what you want to do, you started out stating the desire to build a stroker, then added 450 hp for 5k, now just assemble an engine for the experience. Do you want it to be a fresh engine when you are done or just a training tool (serious question not being smart). There is nothing wrong with building an engine for experience but to get the full experience I would do it right, not to mention that when you are done you will have a serviceable engine that you can either use or maybe get at least your money back out of.

Pick a point on the horizon and we will help you get there, but be realistic with all the aspects of it.

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Sorry, I just read the previous posts from above and I agree that it sounds like I had a couple different goals. Heres what I want to do: 383 stroker attempting to get the most horse power that I can for the budget amount that I have planned. The motor will be used in my square and also doing it for the first time for some knowledge. The cam bearins are still in it and the freeze plugs are still in it, i took those pictures the same day I started this thread. My friend that I bought it from told me that he had them installed after he had a bath given to it and set it in the corner of his shop. But, now it needs to be cleaned up and reworked. Thanks for your help and patience.

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Call Jackson machine
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Some my not agree but the power you want to make you could get close just using worked vortec heads. Buy a rebuild kit with pistons, they are cheap. Go full roller and buy it in a kit not piece by piece like I did. I dont know what side of town you live on but Jackson does great work and you can always find those on Craig list cheap here
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Where are they located man?

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Off of Broadway ext I
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521 w Britton
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