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Fuel pump removal question
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As far as how to get the pump out which way is easier. Drop the tank or pull/tilt the bed. I have seen a few who will tilt the front of bed up and others tilt the drivers side of bed up. If I go the bed route then I have an additional eight bolts to take out after the bed bolts. I have two fifth wheel plates bolted through the bed which four of the bolts go to a mount that is welded to the frame. Looking for ways that some of you may have done this with lifting the bed.
I don't think I want to drop the tank since it has almost a full tank. I did a couple of searches and only came up with one that showed how they did. |
Re: Fuel pump removal question
I think what I am going to try is taking all the bed bolts out and lifting the drivers side up enough to pull the pump out. I am going to straddle the left rear tire with the cherry picker from the rear. That way I can hook right onto the bed rail. Just hope it doesn't pull the inside out of the bedrail with the hook on it.
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
The pump assembly is fairly tall. In fact it expands/contracts for fitment in different depth tanks. I've pulled a few of these, always pulled the bed... With the top of the tank exposed I normally take an air hose and blow any debris away from the pump assembly. With battery disconnected (disclaimer suggestion/good insurance), disconnect the wiring and then the lines. The lines can be troublesome if you don't have the exact sized fuel line disconnect tool, but if you work whatever you have around the lines should come free. The connections/nipples on the pump assembly itself are fairly brittle, when you apply pulling force to the lines you will want to pull STRAIGHT. Don't know specifically when/when not, but there might be a plastic tab you have to depress to loosen the lock ring; before I have hammered the lock ring completely free I normally hit it again with the air hose to clean the area of whatever I may've just knocked loose. Finish lock ring, lift everything straight up. Will probably need 14" or so vertical clearance and then room to tip it to swing the float out.
EDIT: I am thinking about those lines some more, and in the back of my mind I am thinking that one or two of them might be of the style that you can pinch with your fingers or gently with needle-nose and remove them. |
Re: Fuel pump removal question
Remove the bed! That's what we did on my dad's 01.
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
I got the pump out. There seems to be two different possible pumps for this. Supposed to either have TCF or TCU code on it somewhere except I can't find it. The codes are either w/ Evaporative Emission or w/o Evaporative Emission. Where is the code that I am supposed to find. Its not on the RPO sticker in the glovebox either.
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
Call the dealership and give them the VIN. BTW, I'm not sure which pump you choose to buy, but a good certified mechanic friend said the aftermarket pumps don't last as long as the ACDelco parts. It may be more expensive, but you won't have to the job as soon.
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
1 Attachment(s)
This is how I had to get the pump out.
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Re: Fuel pump removal question
I had the same issue. It has something to do with California emissions. I gave my VIN to GMpartsdirect.com and they gave me the correct pump part #. Good choice on the GM pump. Read way too many stories of people pulling those $60-100 aftermarket pumps back out after 3 to 6 months.
That looks like a lot of work. I siphoned my tank and dropped it. I'm glad I did. My truck spent some time up north and one of the straps broke from rust when I loosened it. It had that black coating around it, so it looked fine, but the metal was rotted inside the coating, I replaced both straps. I'm curious what mileage yours went? I think mine went to 125K. It got to where the check ball was wore out, so all the fuel was draining back to the tank, so the truck was having a hard time starting/staying running the first 5-10 seconds. I'm glad mine gave me warning. |
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