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Bagged Dually Questions
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Ok I bought a lowered dually and has a static 5/7 drop. Well i think 5/7 anyway.. The front seems a bit low to me but no more then my C10 that was 5/5. The rear is my main concern. It needs bigger tires to begin with but I think its sitting a bit high and needs a little more drop. Now heres where my questions come in. Im wanting to pull a 5th wheel/ gooseneck camper or a car trailer with who knows on it. Ive pulled everything from big to small on it. lol. So my question is Ive read I dont want to Cnotch it with pulling loads so i dont think i can get any lower. I have no desire to lower it to the ground!! However I was wondering if its possible to pull what i want to with something like a 4bar bag setup and if i can will i still have to notch the frame? The look im looking for is a little less rake and tuck the rear tires a bit. If the look is not possible without compromising load/towing capability please say so. Ill try to get some pics of whats under there at the moment when its daylight out. Been getting home after dark lately.
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I assume it doesn't have a flip kit?
Just a shackle hanger drop. It might be 5" drop up front,... but the rear doesn't look like 7" of drop. |
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Ridetech makes a nice HD 4-link for the C30 trucks.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/universal-hd-4-link.html And a 73-91 C30 specific panhard bar: http://www.ridetech.com/store/1973-1...nhard-bar.html |
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I honestly havent looked. I know the C notches are laying in the floor board. I got it home this weekend and it rained after that and i havent been getting home until dark. I will look tonight however.
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You can either go low or not.
I'd say you are at your non-c-notch level right now. Even a simple flip kit requires a c-notch and most add help bags to tow. Look around on www.duallyscene.com. You can build a notch plenty heavy to allow you to tow,... but I think that will require cutting the bed floor. I don't think you can have it both ways. |
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If the rear is flipped the rear will hit the bottom of the bed floor before it touches the top of the notch ..................... At least on my truck,,,therye are to many variables between vehicles shackle height / how many leafs in stack / overload or not ....
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I bet it doesn't have a flip now. When mine had a flip it was tucking the rear tire a couple of inches.
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Monte0185 you have a pm
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78maliburat what size tires are you running?
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Ill post it in the am
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The only company that I could find that made .250" thick C30 specific c-notches was Western Chassis. I ordered their notches when I measured my dually & was planning to install a flip kit. Then, I learned some good info concerning notched frame strength & realized the c-notches from WC were not up to my standards of use (maintaining or increasing OE structural strength). At < 2" of rail height in the 'notched' section, that's @ least a 60% reduction in rail strength (height = strength)! Boxing that section does not restore the strength anywhere near that same percentage. We calculated the 'strength' of some notches I was building/working on for my 'Recycle' project. These were C10 notches that I based off of the material dimensions of those WC C30 notches I had purchased (and these supposedly were HD notches). To my dismay (& shock), the frame strength was 16% of the original un-cut rail. Also.... If I recall correctly, that 16% was with the frame boxed using .250" plate. To make matters worse for my (or anybodys) dually application, that did not account for the spring mounting points being in front of & behind the rear axle centerline 2' because on a truck-arm set-up everything is mounted in front of the rear axle C/L. The only fix was a solid frame or making the notched section taller. For my C10, I opted to increase the height of the frame equal to what I removed & I boxed it as well yeilding more strength vs OE (disclaimer: Analysis calculated a stronger rail but subjective assesment would/should be based on the welder/fabricators ability). For my dually, I went straight to boxed-in step notches & cut them to fit my application. For your dually..... step notch or the OE strength will be compromised. Lots of guys might be running a c-notched set-up that has 'worked just fine', but that doesn't make it right or safe. In the end, the owner is accountable if something fails. Other info you might want..... RideTech told me a c-notch was not required for their previously available bolt-in 73-91 C30 HD AirBar kit. Their intent was to never exceed the OE rails limitations. I'm not sure what they recommend now on the universal 'HD weld-in kit'. Related notch strength tech.... http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=457037 |
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Well it appears the rear has not been flipped like we suspected. Looks like leaves were removed and helper bags installed. I guess I could add a leaf spring extender on the rear or whatever that bracket is that lifts the spring up close to the bed. Anyway here are some pics.
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SCOTI is correct,...
http://www.belltech.com/c-section-kit-13.html |
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Western Chassis C30 c-notch,...
http://westernchassisinc.com/73-91-c...ction-c-notch/ |
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So what does everyone suggest for lowering it a bit more and do you think the helper bags it has will be ok for towing a 5th wheel camper with the leaves being removed? |
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