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Twisting the truck radiator hose
How is every one twisting the truck radiator spout for clearance for the car intake? Thanx
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Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
Not sure I've heard of anyone twisting it. Either use the 2010+ Camaro pump (truck offset, low profile car intake) or an F-Body pump with spacers to the truck offset.
Thats all ive really read about, I'm sure others will chime in. |
Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
No twisting; you can do as mentioned above, or you can use an offset spacer for the Throttle body (which is much less common, as it usually has to be custom made).
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Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
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Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
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This is news to me. |
Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
I have heard of people heating that area just a little to rotate the outlet pipe with no problems.
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Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
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1) The water neck can be turned in the housing: This turned out to be true, Since I wasn't concerned with saving the pump, I just used a pipe wrench (and a small 18" one at that). It was so easy to turn that the wrench didn't mark the pipe. I pulled it all the way out to inspect the seal, and there isn't one. The tube is just a press fit in the casting. No o-ring, no sealant, nothing. I think the only point in doing this is that you can turn the neck enough to miss the throttle arm on a DBC TB on a car intake. 2) The heater outlets can be removed: This was true as well. They don't just twist out with pliers "as advertised" online, but they only took a half dozen whacks with my slide hammer to pull out. Much like the water outlet, they're just press fit with no seal. The holes left behind can be tapped for pipe plugs without even re-drilling. The point in this one is that it's a clean way to block off heater ports if you're not running a heater. 3) The pulley can be removed without damaging it: True again. But it ain't easy. My 12 ton shop press couldn't do it and I bent up lots of 1/4 plate trying to support the pump in the press. That thing is on there! What finally worked for me was to cut the big nut off the clutch fan and thread the end of it for a 1/2 bolt. That makes a puller of sorts in that you can screw the big nut on the water pump pulley and tighten a 1/2 bolt through the newly tapped hole. The point in this one is that you can supposedly put the truck pulley on a LS1 water pump and you won't need the spacers between the pump and block. I can not confirm the spacer part as I don't have an LS1 pump to experiment with. EDIT: For number 3, I guess I should add that there isn't much point in removing the pulley unless you already have a truck pump and an LS1 pump to start with. If you have to buy a new LS1 pump you're gonna be about $100 into it and it doesn't come with a thermostat or thermostat housing. The Gen 5 Camaro (L99) pump already shares the truck belt spacing and it does come with the thermostat housing and thermostat. You can get the L99 Camaro pump for $123 and free shipping at Amazon and it just bolts on. |
Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
Holy crap, you knew something about LS motors that I hadn't ever heard. Thats some gold-star earning behavior!
http://bloviatingzeppelin.net/wp-con...ng-Nothing.jpg |
Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
Hahahaha!
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Re: Twisting the truck radiator hose
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I just went through this last week and buying a pump from the Delco Dist. and the price was $125 more than that for a Camaro pump! Are all pumps "equal"?? We are now in the process of "removing" the outlet pipe ant this info helps a lot, Thank You |
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