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Drip rails
The PO on my junk shaved the drip rails. I was wondering if anyone had ever put them back on a truck after they were removed. I am not sure what all is involved, just wondering.
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Re: Drip rails
On my year you could just re-drill the holes, and install.
I think 73-77 were this way as I know 73-74 were this way so you could score an early set. |
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I know my '83 had them held on by screws. Just re-drill the holes and you should be good to go.
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How do they come apart so you can access the screws?
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The chrome is just a cover that clips on. Kinda pita, but do-able.
Had a set on my '73 (not stock), I removed them, 1 snowstorm and they went back on. Oh, if you get the chrome off, the steel underneath has cut outs to get fasteners in and out, |
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mine were shaved, i redrilled and put them back on
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So you just pry them off?? Or slide them off?? Don't want to destroy them.
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You don't have to remove the chrome/stainless piece to get to the screws. I have had mine on and off without doing that. Finding the right screws was kind of a pain. I finally found some stainless screws at a local hardware store that were perfect. Before I found those everything I found in the correct size for the holes were too long.
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My next question is, are the ones sold in LMC's catalog the entire drip rail or just the chrome trim?
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1 Attachment(s)
I'm partial to the shaved look ;)
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Mine I removed in one piece, they just kinda became separated on the ground. I installed in 2 pieces as I could get a straighter shot at the screw.
Odds are, they came from a junkyard, who knows when. Besides, it was a plow truck-work truck, not a showpiece. |
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I used a small wrench to remove them from the truck. I did not want to bend the stainless either. Also, get you some stainless screws from the hardware store, they look cool. And dont forget the 3m double sided tape. This is what actually keeps the water from running thru them.
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The shaved look I.M.O. makes the cab look like a new style truck and not vintage.:ack:
Plus, the shaved cab allows water to flow DIRECTLY into a crack open window during rain or if you use your windshield washer. |
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Like Donut said its just a metal frame piece that bolts on with very roughly 8 screws or so in each side, and a small chrome trim clips on it almost flush - you can put the chrome trim on first then just screw the whole deal in with a small wrench which takes forever as no room and you cant use the closed end of the wrench like with a gear wrench, only enough room for open end doing like half a turn at a time so yeah real pain.
But yours being shaved could be a problem, like how far did they hammer each of the roughly 8 holes in before they welded or bondo'd them? if they're pounded in half an inch and bondo'd, then what - use longer screws with old indented holes? Or just move rail over some and tap all new holes in metal? Its not going to be easy with so many holes filled in. |
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I reattached mine. I got some from the junkyard and bought new stainless screws and attached them with 3m tape and some gasket adhesive over the screw holes so water doesn't get in.
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I welded the holes up on mine when I repainted . I did not want to re drill the cab so I reattached with 3m tape to the cab . Staying on just fine , but you must be sure they fit the cab perfect at relaxed state . So I just keeps tweaking them until they fit and then added the 3m tape .
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I left my holes when I repainted and when I put the drip rails back on I put a bead a black rtv on the backside and then screwed em back on..after it dried I cleaned up excess rtv
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I ran the very small bead of rtv (it squishes down flat) the entire length of the drip rail..there was very litlle cleanup..most of what squirted out just pulled right off
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