98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

Hey guys,

Thanks for looking and hopefully helping me. I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado extended cab. I have owned it for about two and a half years and it has 188k on it. It runs great except last year it just stalled on me after I dropped it into drive and barely starting going. Then a few seconds later I was able to start it again. Between that time I had nothing when I turned the key. It did it twice in a row and then never again until a few weeks ago. It happened again and lasted for a minute or so and started again. Then at work a week or so ago it died in the middle of the parking lot for about 30 minutes. During that time there was a ticking from the bottom of my dash near my steering column. When I was trying to find it I noticed that the lights under the dash were flicking with the ticking. The ticking was completely random from what I could tell. Some work mates helped me push it out of the way and looked at it. Still nothing. They left and then a few minutes later it started. Also I should mention that everything goes dead. Clock resets and the computer seems to also. Someone told me to check the fuse link but I'm not sure about what that means. Just in the last two days it seems to be doing a studder while driving but ever so slightly. you can feal it ever so slightly but doesn't register on the tach. Please any one have any idea ?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Ben

Re: 98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

I'd check grounds all around to cab, to engine, to frame, to battery etc. Good luck.

Re: 98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

Ignition switch

Re: 98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

OK thanks guys. By ignition switch did you mean ignition control module?

Re: 98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

No the switch you put the key in.

Re: 98 Chevy K1500 stall problem/electrical problem?
 

The key doesn't go into the switch on these models. There is an aluminum housing with some gears inside. One side houses the lock cylinder and pass lock sensor. And the other side houses the ignition switch


I would check all grounds and battery connections before spending $150+ on an ignition switch. Physically take them apart. If you have a helper, do a voltage drop test on your battery cables and grounds.