Bleeding the brakes...
 

just a quick question.... is there a certain way to bleed the brakes.. as far as a certain order.. front left... front right.. left rear.. right rear? i fixed the broken brake line filled it with fluid and tried to bleed the brakes started at the rear and couldnt get anything to work.. will give it another shot tues.

last time i sorta bled the brakes is when i had to change the master cylinder and i did front to back and i used like another couple of bottles of fluid. i thought about upgrading my brakes to heavy duty disc's all around but it was recomended that i used that dot 5 silicone brake fluid that stuff is like 9 bucks for the little bottle imagine bleeding that

jon you bleed the brakes the way you described i ususally have an assistant pump the sh%t outta the brakes then i start the bleeding you go closest to the furthest and dont listen to the people who tell ya right rear first and left rear last

Just a piece of advice, don't pump them real fast. About 2 good slow pumps and then hold the pedal. If you pump them fast it will churn the fluid in the resevoir and could cause bubbles.

ok well.... i bled the brakes tonight.. or lets put it this way i got fluid to come out of them by pumping and holding the brake pedal and bleeding them closest to furthest..nothing has changed, the pedal still drops to the floor when you press on it.. the last 1/2" the brakes work.. the first 6 or 7" they dont..

master cylinder maybe? (if so...price?) i dont have a clue.....

You might have air trapped at the master cylinder. Try taking it off and bench bleeding it, then re-bleed the wheel cylinders. If that doesn't do it, the master cylinder could be shot too...

Instead of taking it off the truck to bench bleed, simply unbolt the brake lines from the master cyl, then install the bleeding plugs & submerge the lines into the mstr.cyl. & slowly pump the brake pedal until no air bubbles are seen.

Hook the lines back up & re-bleed the system. When I was having trouble w/mine, I went & got 4 clear bottles (1 for each wheel cylinder/caliper) & put a small length of vac line on each bleeder screw. This way I never allowed any air in the vacuum lines (since I left them in place while moving from farthest to closest) & I could monitor the bleeding results better.

Also FWIW, I always have my lovely assistant pump the pedal down until she reaches the end of travel & hold it there until I let her know I've got the bleeder screw fully opened/closed, then she slowly lets it all the way up. I don't pump the brakes more than once. I do each corner 3 seperate times before moving to the next, & refill the mstr.cyl. fluid level after each corner . I used a full qt. of fluid before getting all the air out of my 74.

i have never done brakes before... i will try bleeding them again. i am not real sure about bleeding the master cylinder. where do i get bleeding plugs? i will give it a shot though......thanks guys!

Usually when you purchase a new mstr.cyl. they will include bleeding plugs & small lengths of vac tubing. Try your local parts house, they should have some extras somewhere. They're just some plastic plugs that thread into the front & rear ports & allow you to connect the vac tubing to be able to bleed the mstr.cyl.

The way I have always bleed brake lines, was like everyone has been saying, W/ the assistant and all. But have always pumped the petal slowly until it was really firm and would only go about half way to the floor. Then open the valve slowly, let any air out, and close it. Repeat until nothing but fluid comes out.

I use my Miteyvac now. I've graduated past the pedal pumping and requiring an assistant. Last time I tried to get my wife to help and hearing her complain (or is the word *****?) about her leg getting tired was the straw that broke the camels back. I ordered the Miteyvac the next day. :)

It gets lonely when you don't need help to fix stuff, but it sure is a lot easier on the ears. :D