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I got a hold of Bruce @ Hawks and we got the p0332 code taken care of today. No more codes to erase. Charles went through the files and decided to just turn it off. He said if I ever decided to take it back a part and replace the knock senor he could turn it back on for me.:chevy:

Taking the intake off is not that big of a deal . I would take the time to replace a bad knock sensor . Kind of like a fuse . As long as there is no problem then there is no problem . But if there is a short and no fuse , well there you go . The knock sensor is like a fuse . Not needed until a problem . If you have a lean condition it will pull timing to keep knock down so not to destroy the engine . You can not always hear knock. What could go wrong , weak fuel pump , failing injector , engine over heat , failing oxygen sensor just to name a few.

Small price to pay for what it does for you .

I agree. Turning the code off is kind of like putting a bandaid on a broken arm....

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls1nova71 (Post 6960932)

I agree. Turning the code off is kind of like putting a bandaid on a broken arm....

So it works fine until years later you develop a blood-based illness because your marrow has leaked into your bloodstream and caused your immune system to freak out?

....I'm actually pretty sure thats how that would go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls1nova71 (Post 6960932)

i agree. Turning the code off is kind of like putting a bandaid on a broken arm....

The knock senor was brand new with new wires on the install. The other knock senor is still functional so any knock in the engine will be picked up by it.

The knock senor in question would come on right after start up and no I could never tell any difference in the way it ran and neither could the computer yesterday after Charles hooked it up. I could clear the code with my scan gauge and as long as I never turned the key off it would never set again. The only time it would set is after the key had been turned off and back on and it never cared how long the truck was off.:chevy:

If the engine only needed one sensor, then GM would have only installed one sensor.

I'd find a new tuner. I like things to work as designed. I'm weird like that.

Andy is basically saying theres an issue outside of the knock sensor and the wiring.
Beyond that diagnosing the problem any further is probably a waste of time/money, turn it off and drive on, who cares.

Do you have another computer you could get your hands on andy to try?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit (Post 6961349)

If the engine only needed one sensor, then GM would have only installed one sensor.

I'd find a new tuner. I like things to work as designed. I'm weird like that.

Really!

Yes I can believe your weird alright. :lol:;) If I wanted what a engineer said I would have put the old 307 back in it. That is what my 71 came with from the factory by the engineer's that built it.
I guess all the vats, secrurity stuff needs to be reactivated also since the engineer had all that programed into the ECU also.
Yes I agree it needs to be fixed but until I have a good reason to tear the intake off, I will run like it is. As stated if it really was engine knock it would set right after clearing it with the scan gauge but it doesn't.
If the knock senor is malfunctioning then it want be any good to leave it on because I will never know if it's a real issue are not.
:chevy:

Quote:

Originally Posted by HemiChallenger71 (Post 6961417)

Not at the present time. I have thought about this though. I would have to have it tuned and just cant justify the extra cost of the tune. :chevy:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 6961593)

I understand what you're saying. Kinda. Sorta. But not really.

Let me explain my perspective: I assume you did the swap to an LS platform to take advantage of modern engine, correct? What makes that engine "modern" are items like fuel injection, computerized fuel management, component ignition, ECM and the components needed for it's proper function, etc. All of those line items equate to a more powerful AND more efficient engine. If my assumption is correct, then doing away with or disabling the very components that make the LS platform advantageous for such a swap is really pretty silly & self defeating. (VATS & security have nothing to do with how the engine actually runs. They are simply an electronic version of a key. Not sure why those were brought up in a post about knock sensors, but whatever.)

By your reaction it looks like I might have stepped on your toes. Not my intent. I stand by my original post. Find a new tuner. One that will help you pin-point what is wrong and one that will help you remedy the problem - not one that says "oh let's just ignore this systemic problem, that'll make it go away."

Good luck.

Knock sensors.....what are those??

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...psidxsvgfe.jpg

I'm surprised that so many of you guys trust the health of your engine to sensors that tell you something is wrong when it's too late. Tune it well, and run good fuel, and fuhgettaboutit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy4639 (Post 6961593)

As stated if it really was engine knock it would set right after clearing it with the scan gauge but it doesn't.
If the knock senor is malfunctioning then it want be any good to leave it on because I will never know if it's a real issue are not.
:chevy:

Andy - if you think it is false knock, which can happen due to various reasons, solid motor mounts, poly mounts, headers, etc, the tuner can actually raise the threshold that triggers the light. At least that way you would still have some protection if something triggered a real knock. If you purchase HPTuners, you can make this adjustment yourself.

I'm sure you've seen this, but just in case:

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0332

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wasted Income (Post 6962338)

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

I wished I had left them off!
This is one reason why I don't care if the knock senor is not working. I have it tuned right I have it running just fine like it is on 93 fuel. The motor runs great. I talked to several people and they all agree'd it wasn't running bad at all. The GM reps on the power tour last year looked at it and said that I should wrap the wires in a grounded sleeve wrapper and be done with it. Again it wasn't worth the time and money to tear it a part to wrap it. They also said I shouldn't be resetting the ECU while I'm driving it! I have done so everytime I crank it up and take off once the code sets.

Quote:

Willie Makeit

I understand what you're saying. Kinda. Sorta. But not really.

Let me explain my perspective: I assume you did the swap to an LS platform to take advantage of modern engine, correct? What makes that engine "modern" are items like fuel injection, computerized fuel management, component ignition, ECM and the components needed for it's proper function, etc. All of those line items equate to a more powerful AND more efficient engine. If my assumption is correct, then doing away with or disabling the very components that make the LS platform advantageous for such a swap is really pretty silly & self defeating. (VATS & security have nothing to do with how the engine actually runs. They are simply an electronic version of a key. Not sure why those were brought up in a post about knock sensors, but whatever.)

By your reaction it looks like I might have stepped on your toes. Not my intent. I stand by my original post. Find a new tuner. One that will help you pin-point what is wrong and one that will help you remedy the problem - not one that says "oh let's just ignore this systemic problem, that'll make it go away."

I know what the problem is are at least I think I do. I have a bad senor, wire, low voltage are a bad ECU. The reason for having it turned off is it not worth the time are the cost to tear it a part just for that. It's not worth it to me. Having the red engine light shining in my face everytime I turn the truck on was why I had him turn it off. He had nothing to do with that. It was my decission. If it was a problem with the motor I would fix it.

Hart_Rod,
yes this was one of the threads that got me to thinking it maybe a false code from low voltage are bad wire because it ran fine and yes I had the tunner ride with me and nothing happens when the code sets other than the code.

Shon turned mine off Andy, since it was a constant 7' of timing lose. Engine runs fine and all parameters that GM put in the computer are fine. I can tell a difference with all of my timing. Just drive it and keep an open ear for spark knock!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwinsSpeedShop (Post 6965943)

Yep! That's the plan. If anything the truck seems to run better now that it's been turned off.:chevy:

A little update since I thought I had the front knock senor turned off I have not set any knock codes at all not one. Truck is running fine and I think maybe Charlies reset the senor threshold instead of cutting it off.I haven't confirmed this with him but after driving it as long as I have I've been thinking that's what he did.:chevy:

if you need a PCM andy46339, I will send you a pcm. you gotta program it. you helped me out with my horn issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dec010974 (Post 7193639)

if you need a PCM andy46339, I will send you a pcm. you gotta program it. you helped me out with my horn issue.

Thanks for the offer. What would it cost to send me one. :chevy:

I tell you what, ill pay it forward. at least I know i have a LSx/C10 friend in SC. it shouldn't cost more that 10.00 to send to you, usps priority. DBC or DBW? you'll have to program it, remove vats and all that stuff. i have (2) DBW PCM's. you can send it to Brendan for 75.00. he'll remove all that trash. you have to send him your specs such as engine, injector numbers, tranny info. hit me up and well talk.

Andy, if you think you have a bad ecu, I have one sitting here on the bench you can test. heck, if you wanted to I can read out your file, put the same thing in this one since I have the VIN and see what it says.