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- - 454 v8 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=659820)

Is this much of a common swap? i've been looking into it and having issues finding much information on it, it seems cutting into the firewall is a minimum requirement, and very likely some shaving off of the frame, if anybody knows of a good resource for this swap, or has done it themselves, any information would be greatly appreciated.

Start searching the build threads. There are a lot of big block swaps around here. One local guy that comes to mind is 66farmer. He's got a beautiful big block truck.

the search is turning up with nothing for me, alot of 70's trucks, but ive not found any threads.

Well try this thread; http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=659330 by JonnyR...he is installing a 454 in his 65"

Thanks, I found a few this evening, but the info for each was completely different from the next so that makes it kind of rough to find the right info. Might have to go for a sbc swap, but I'd like a BBC project.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hantke (Post 7043472)

What about the GMC 351E big block V6? I got one and they are HIGH TORQUE and get better mileage than a V8.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldGMJon (Post 7043473)

What about the GMC 351E big block V6? I got one and they are HIGH TORQUE and get better mileage than a V8.

I want a 60-66 4wd GMC with a 351M or a 305 big block V6, but I feel like the effort put forth into getting one and dropping it into a chevy C20 would outweigh the benefits, especially when cost wise I can get a SBC or BBC. I'd be all in if it was the original engine, and I am still strongly considering a 327 V8 as well. But the 454 idea popped up and I've been curious about it, some people said they got theirs to fit with no cutting at all, others claim you have to cut away a lot of the firewall.

It's not that hard. Take a look at my build thread.

Theres a couple ways to do it. Im not a body man so I did not want to cut the firewall. I used stock 68-71 Chevy BB truck motor mounts. I did cut the frame back a little to get them to seat right. Rest is a bolt in with factory parts.Tall Valve covers just clear . I've done it twice now and its a blast to drive !

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...%20bed/022.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...%20bed/021.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...0bed/015-1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...0bed/014-1.jpg

That looks awesome!! I am going back and forth between doing the big block or stroking my 350.

Here is mine. We all do them differently. I opted for cutting the firewall only becasue I wanted my engine to sit back and I didn't have to redo the drive shaft. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=259536

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66farmer (Post 7043585)

It's not that hard. Take a look at my build thread.

Will do when I find it. Search function seems to actually be working so I read a few more today.

Found it, hoorah for the search function.

By the way I used to live really close to you, I'm from forest grove Oregon myself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 60-66 (Post 7043670)

Did you use a stock transmission? I want to keep the stock sm420 4 speed transmission in it this one, I really like the feel of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside (Post 7043786)

So essentially if I keep the stock transmission I have to cut the fire wall, if I switch transmissions I can extend or cut the driveline and it will work without cutting the body?

Being that your trans mount is riveted to the frame , I think you will need to modify the firewall. I used an automatic and was able to slide the trans crossmember to where I needed it to be.

Okay, I'm still debating if I want to cut into the firewall or not, it seems like a good way for me to mess something up. Maybe I should be looking for a SBC for this truck and wait for my 63 for the BBC swap. That's going to be the one I take extra time on to make everything perfect as it will be a daily driver build, the 66 is my tinker toy which is being built as a work truck.

Thank you for the great info though!

i use poly performance mounts, just have to cut a bit the chasis rails to make them fit properly. with tall valve cover and milodon oil pan clearance is ok anywhere.
Even if the engine is sitting a bit higher for me, i'd like it lower to get a better angle for my driveline.
I drill new holes between the two available position on my chassis to get the engine as back as i want.
When i replace the cab mounts and put the cab back square to the chassis all came pretty straight and i have a bit more room on the PS of the cab for the cab heater hoses through the firewall.
didn't know what headers use anyway.
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