Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

Here's my setup:
69K10- Swapped in a Dana 60 up front and a NP205 T-case. Now I'm trying to piece together the axle to connect the two. The truck has a 2 inch lift.

Currently I have a yoke (32 spline) output that I can use on the front or rear of the t-case.

Looking online I see I can use a flange (flat face) or Yoke (rabbit ears?) style. I don't know what came of the truck or which style I should use. It appears the Double Cardan Joint is a better way (lower angles (Constant Velocity)=less vibration?).

This is foreign to me. Any help would be appreciated.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

On the front output of the 205, you can use either the flange style or yoke(dana/spicer). You would need the appropriate double-cardian joint, at the dana 60 it should have a 1350 u-joint yoke. Check dennysdriveshafts.com they have any and all conversion joints.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

If it is a stock D60 front it will have a 1310 yoke. Unless you have had the 205 rebuilt and the front output shaft replaced you will have either a 10 spline (yoke) or a 30 spline (flange). If you have replaced the front output shaft to a 32 spline then you should be looking for a flange that will accept a 1350 CV cardian. Then you can either swap the front yoke of the D60 to a 1350, and have a beef driveline, or just keep the 1310 and have what some people call a fuse in the shaft. What's the gearing and tire size? What type of 'wheeling' you going to do?

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

Thanks Jim/Kwmech,

I have CUCV axles (4.56 w/33 inch tires). I thought (but I could be wrong) the D60 had a 1350 yoke not a 1310. Either way, if its a 1310, I'll just use a conversion joint for now.

The 205 is a round pattern (all new guts/32 spline front & rear outputs). I wasn't understanding the cardan joint, but I think I have to have one no matter what; I just got to decide on a flange vs yoke type?

My other concern is clearance issues with this hodgepodge combination. I'm running a 454 and NV4500 Trans. I'm hoping the driveshaft doesn't contact the bellhousing, exhaust or some other unforeseen part.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

you shouldn't have any clearance issues with the bellhousing or exhaust with the front shaft. you'll want to build your exhaust after your drivetrain install of course, which you'll find plenty of routing options. Im running the exact same set up with full length Hooker comps, 3" duals, and a CV on the front shaft.

good luck with your project.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

that front output yoke isn't what would have been on that t-case from spicer. if you converted it to 32 spl, i would run a flat flange style yoke with the corresponding CV. the yoke is what came on a first gen dodge 205.

do you have the earlier style external slave clutch or the internallly mounted version? are you running a conversion BH or the original from the trans is the better question to ask first i guess. the earlier style with the release arm cavity on the lower pass. side may cause an issue with the driveline and lower lift height and suspension compression.

i know its apples to oranges, but i have the round 205 with AA spacer, an AA BH and an early nv4500 with a tbi 454 in my jeep truck. it has a gm 60f and 2.5" gm lift springs. i used. there are zero clearance issues with driveline or exhaust. i used a 32 spl. front output and flange from a dodge 205.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

ryanroo,

That yoke is just on there so I don't lose it. lol. It's going on the rear output. Right now I only have the external slave (used) that the seller threw in when I bought the trans.

I recall there are benefits to the external from what I have read. I just ordered the AA Conversion Bellhousing from Summit. Now that you mention it, it was the shaft/clutch linkage issue I was thinking about. Like you said, with the AA housing that wont be an issue.

Thanks Guys. I'll be asking you questions as I put this together, assuming you don't mind :)

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

I too run the stock external slave without any driveline issues. It is close but no contact. Driveshaft is out at the moment due to interference with trans crossmember but it does fit with room to spare - unless you are into some real flexy rock crawling at which point you wouldn't be using the stock BH anyway. Your 4500 - 205 combo looks way clean. Is it a pre '95 4500?

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

The yoke you want is from a chevy np241 or np208. Just get the appropriate seal. Then you can use a stock Front shaft. 1350 is completely unnecessary and overkill but that's badass if you do.

You need a front flange from highangledriveline.com or Tom woods company that has a 4.25 bolt circle and a 2-1/8 seal. Then you get a 99+ ford super duty front shaft. That is a 1350 cv as is. None will bolt in and they need to be cut to fit. Remove the dana 60 yoke and replace with a 1350. Lots of work for un needed strength imo.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

I got a Tom Woods rear shaft with a dbl cardan from a furd and a flat bolt on flange and that was about 13 years ago and flawless since then and no noticeable wear. GREAT company. Just wish I would have had the coin for the front d60. The stock unit is a bugger to bolt in and take out and the flat flange would have made this chore LOADS easier. I would do it now just for the convenience.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

Why remove the D60 Yoke? Is it not a 1350 stock?

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

It is not, stock gm kingpin 60 front is 1310.

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

yup

Re: Driveline/Joint Help Needed
 

This is true. Mine fit the stock front shaft (after it was lengthened). Fella at Tom Woods said the same thing about it being unnecessary. Said if you pretzel the front shaft go for it but til then you most likely will be ok. So I spent the big bucks going overkill on the rear.