Cab insulation
 

Hey guys,

I've been reading about peel and stick from lowes that a lot of people use for sound deadening etc. And for $15 I want to give it go.

My question is instead of laying the product down on my cab floors can I just put down done "industrial" foil first and then lay down the product onto the foil? That way if I ever want to remove it from the cab it's not a mess.

I have some new foil backed foam or insulation that I want to lay next then finally my new carpet.

What do you guys think about putting down some foil down first?

Thx

Re: Cab insulation
 

I don't think you'd get the same results as sticking it to the metal. I work for Peterbilt in cab trim and a similar product is applied directly to the panels and works really good to stiffen up the otherwise flimsy body panels

Re: Cab insulation
 

Ok so let me ask you this: what if I used adhersive on foil to the floor in order to reflect the Heat. Then installed the peel and stick which would help with the acoustics a little. Now for the next part I'm at a loss. my padding which has foil on one side and jupe on the other I guess would go foil side up and jupe side down? I honestly have not see any clear direction online.

My reasoning for foil in the first place besides to clean up down the road is to act as a little bit of insurance. My floorboards do get hot a bit (I have headers) and I think the peel and stick would last longer with cooler temps with the foil reflecting a lot of the Heat.

What do you think? Appreciate your help.

Re: Cab insulation
 

proper deadening material can be bought for 25 sq ft for like $40 so I do not know why people try to skimp out on this stuff for.

I would never use a inferior product in an that my lungs will be located.

Re: Cab insulation
 

I used the Lowes peel & stick. I has some DynaMat/FatMat left over and then I read that too about the stuff from Lowes. When you compare the two, they are identical. I wished I would have heard about the Lowes stuff first, DynaMat & FatMat is EXPENSIVE.

So, if your not going to put the peel & stick down correctly, then don't use it. You should never have a need "to remove it". Just don't cover your bolt & screw holes. I put this stuff down on my floor, on the firewall, on the back rear panel behind the seat, inside the doors, and even under the headliner. I also put it on the back of the door panels, like Kaysen said, it firms up the panels.
After that, I put the factory black tar mat down. On top of that, the foil with the jute. Foil side goes up. I used foil tape to keep it all in place.

Then the new carpet, cardboard storage tray behind the seat and new floormat.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Where did you get the floormat? Looks great

Re: Cab insulation
 

FloorMatExpress.com The Chevrolet Logo is a 50's style, there is a bunch of logos to chose from. It's the Velourtex, then choose your make & model, one piece or two piece and the color.

A few more pics of the mat. And now, the interior is pretty much finished.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Dont expect much for 15.00 and dont believe everything you read on the web.

I wont begin to try to explain the difference between the two materials you describe, but there is a HUGE difference. Regardless, I will try to explain why your idea wont work. The whole concept behind mat style sound dampeners is to dampen or eliminate sound waves, not insulate against them. The mat material must be attached to diminish the sound waves.

The foil is designed to reflect radiant heat, but its effectiveness is minimal in the mat style products. To obtain thermal protection, you are much more effective with a spray on sound barrier, followed by a ceramic thermal barrier.

You wont find any of these products at the local hardware store. Research thermal automotive coatings for best results.

Re: Cab insulation
 

The peel and stick is asphalt the proper brands are butyl. Asphalt will smell when it gets warm.

The purpose of that layer is to eliminate resonance. You only need a little and only on large flat panels. To block sound you want closed cell foam followed by mass loaded vinyl and finally your carpet.

Re: Cab insulation
 

I have used both dynaMat & FatMat. And then I used the stuff from Lowes. The only difference is the price, it is absolutely the same in every way as the expensive stuff. It works just as well, all your paying for is the name.

Re: Cab insulation
 

I can't say for sure the quality or greatness of it but DEI makes a spray on sound deadener ( Amazon.com: DEI 050220 Boom Mat Spray-on:...) that I'm putting down on the the floor before I lay down any sound deadening material myself.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Appreciate all the replies. Let me focus on what I'm trying to do. I already have peel and seal. So that's that. I have heard both sides on it smells and it doesn't smell.

So my thought process is: if a layer of foil is laid down first, my though process would think that the radiant heat from the cab would be substantially less and limit keep my cab cooler and at the same time some
Cheap insurance on the peal and stick's adhersive "melting".

With that said: I had rust holes in my exhaust, my floorboards, crappy seals in my windows, and a thin black mat for my flooring so I'm
Not gonna get in the pissing match of brands and types etc. anything I do would be an improvement. I appreciate all the replies!

Re: Cab insulation
 

When it comes to the smell, they all smell somewhat while your putting it down. But once it gets covered up with the jute and carpeting, you won't smell it anymore.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Ok cool I'm not too worried about it but I got extra time to think about doing this. Btw that mat you got for your truck is pretty sweet.

What part of Ohio you from? I used to live outside toledo for a few years before I joined the army.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Thanks, and any other questions, just holler.

NW part of Ohio. About 45 mins NW of Columbus and we are about 2 hrs. south of Toledo.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Believe what you want. I prefer to base my answer on data, not appearance. There have been dozens of tests made by audio research groups showing the difference.

Re: Cab insulation
 

While this sounds logical. it defeats the capability of the damping mat. To reduce resonance and the resulting sound waves inside your cab, the damping material should be applied directly to the metal. The foil is marginally effective in heat reduction, but it should go on top of the mat.

Re: Cab insulation
 

I did base my answer on data, or I wouldn't have posted it. I researched it, got the MSDS on the products, the ingredients & thickness. They are identical. And I also based it on the fact that I have used them all in several vehicles. DynaMat in one of my vehicles, FatMat in another and then the Lowes product in the truck. And they all have perform the same, in my opinion. But I will have to say, I believe the truck has out-performed the others by a bit, because my truck was just down right noisy. Maybe it has to do with the added layers of matting & ect, but I stand by opinions. So since I did my own audio research, I tend to believe my own rather than what some else supposedly did.

Re: Cab insulation
 

I have been trying to find my old posts on the topic, but they are buried. I will see if I cant locate recent data instead. What I can tell you is I have seen tests reports from independent labs, and the difference is there.

The debate on mat material really concern me as I am exploring the performance of spray-able dampers instead. The data so far indicates that Lizard Skin and the similar products out perform the mat style product for sound damping and thermal transfer significantly. The cost is much cheaper than the name brand mat materials, and the weight savings is HUGE.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Those Billet Specialties pedals look nice. Any issues with the fitment?

Re: Cab insulation
 

I read over this post just yesterday, and while long for sure, it covers a lot of the hype about spray on materials and the effectiveness, there is also a good bit of anecdotal data on personal experiences. buried within our a few links to other sites that have done a bit more precise testing, but for me the jury is still out in regards to which spray on to use...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

Re: Cab insulation
 

I read that article not too long ago too. I guess for my situation being that I had holes in the floor bad windows etc, that anything I do would be a substantial fix to keep my cab quiet relative to what I had before. For the doors I sprayed a rubber kind of spray to: insulate the metal on the inside from
Water and maybe help act as a deadener is sorts. That part is a bonus. I ultimately want weather projection for it to drain out. I can't wait to get everything done to see the difference.

Re: Cab insulation
 

The parking brake was the only one I had to trim down for the cover to fit.

Re: Cab insulation
 

73kay, I'm right down the road from you in Harker Heights. I'm currently trying to decide which route I will take for my cab insulation/sound deadening. I'm going to try Al's Liner HNR for the thermal aspect and then either fatmat or some other sound deadener. I was going to give the Lowe's stuff a try but read some things about it that I don't like. I know that right now anything will be an improvement on mine since I currently only have the factory jute and some thin carpet and holes in the firewall that need to be plugged.

Re: Cab insulation
 

Nice! First local I've come across in the fort hood area. I'll have to stop by and see your truck I get mine up and running. I've done a budget build for over a year so I'm gonna stick with the lowes stuff. Hell if built my truck perfectly I would be broke and never have reason to take it apart again!