Replacement parts before install
 

So I picked up a 5.3 which supposedly had 140k on it, but after some digging I was able to decode partial vin stamped into the block and determined that it had closer to 190k on it. I pulled the valve covers and it looks clean, and I know that the truck was running and driving since it was pulled due to a collision. What parts should I look at replacing before I install the motor?

I was thinking of the water pump and oil pump. Should I upgrade the oil pump, even if I used a factory replacement? I already plan to replace gaskets to parts I am removing to paint the motor (intake, valve covers, exhaust manifolds). Anything else I should do before I put the motor in the truck?

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

If it ran fine before the wreck, I'd LEAVE IT ALONE. I see so many guys wanting to swap an LS for cheap power, then the first thing they do is tear it all apart and replace everything. lol. Gets expensive quick that way.

I think in all my years of LS swaps, I've only had one water pump fail...it was my fault. If you must replace the oil pump, I'd just go with a factory replacement. No need for an upgrade on a stock engine. Again, if it had good oil pressure before the wreck...leave it alone.

LS junk is pretty bulletproof when left stock. I don't consider 190k miles high for a well cared for and clean 5.3. Throw it in an drive it.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

Agree with WASTED INCOME..

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I've seen timing chains stretch before a water pump wears out. Thankfully after GM got yelled because the WP would fail on EVERY damn engine they made, they actually figured out reverse flow cooling and made one that didn't weep/seize/eat itself.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

My plan to replace the parts was based on previous experience with other non-LS motors. I'm certainly willing (and so is my bank account) the $300+ to replace the oil pump and water pump if it isn't necessary. I was only considering it since the motor was laying in the floor of my garage.

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I mean theres nothing wrong with doing that, but "need" can become a tricky word.

The timing chain and oil pump are higher priority IMO, the water pump is easy to change at any point.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

I agree with brew. If you are itching to swap something out, the timing chain and oil pump would be my targets. Assuming you're using the stock truck oil pan and pickup, be absolutely certain that you use the red oil pump pickup o-ring (GM P/N 12584922). Seems it's hit or miss if aftermarket pumps have the correct truck o-ring included. The truck oil pans use a different o-ring than the cars, and has caused many a headache when a new motor goes in, and has no oil pressure on startup. Also be careful not to pinch the o-ring when you re-install the pump pickup tube.

In regards to gaskets, that is one of the best parts of the LS. I can't really think of a gasket on the engine that is not re-usable if not damaged upon disassembly. Everything is o-ringed for the most part. Intake gaskets are good to replace on an older engine since they do sometimes take a set and create a vacuum leak. I have never, ever replaced a set of valve cover gaskets, on any junkyard engine FWIW. Even the steel exhaust gaskets can be re-used, but for the price, I'd start with a fresh set.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

These engines seem to have a lot of issues with head gaskets so I would do some research to whether you believe it's needed or if you want run the risk. With new gasket comes new head bolts and resurfacing of the head if they a warped. Keep us posted.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

Really? News to me. What problems are you having?

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

Really? My 140k mile 5.3L had oil buildup on the valve covers, around the valley pan and oil pan edges, so I opted to pull all those and replace the gaskets, as well as scrub everything clean. I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets as well because why not. I reused the intake gaskets tho, they are fine. FYI LS gaskets are not cheap, I used all Victor-reinz. Resealed the PS pump as that was all leaky too.

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Sounds like if you are having to re-surface the heads, the heads are your root cause, not the gaskets.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

It will obviously depend on your specific engine. If there's a leak...replace the gasket ;)

Most of my junkyard engines have been NASTY when I get them. Whether that's from gasket leaks from age or improper removal/installation by previous owner, oil being spilled on the engine at oil changes, other stuff leaking and coating the engine while driving (PS pump is a good example) is hard to say

A good clean up and inspection of the engine and gaskets, replacement of the problem areas, and go do burnouts.

For example, when I pull the oil pan of a 100k+ engine, I usually replace the pan gasket for good measure. However, I will never replace that pan gasket again, even if I pull the pan 10 more times while I own it.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

:smoke:

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I was expecting a first hand account. You can Google any car and then "head gasket problems" and youll get tons of results, try it. I've had a lot of LS engines and never had a head gasket problem.

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I am using the f-body oil pan and associated parts

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Ditto. The only head gasket problem I've had was self inflicted.

Bone stock '99 5.3 (with the old, original graphite head gaskets)....12 psi of boost and way too aggressive timing.

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LS Motors do not have "common headgasket issues". 80% of the threads you'll find on LS head gasket failure are AFTER someone tried to do a head gasket, new seat of heads, or a rebuild.

The primary causes of HG failure are from; improper torque sequence, failure to clean the gasket surface (like, medically clean), using a crappy gasket, or just being cheap in general. Warping the head is an indication of serious cooling issues to start with, and more than likely, for a prolonged period.

I've seen many LS motors get plucked from junkyards, hit with a ghetto turbo or a bottle, and run all day, then drive home. I don't see them lifting the heads, pushing water, or melting down.

As for the "google it" thing. The people who post/complain are the ones who have issues. Those with stock, perfectly running trucks aren't jumping online to post about how nothing happened. The internet brings out the vocal minority. If you believe early LS1tech posts, then all LS motors eat quarts of oil, and have wrist pin knock.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

Almost finished with my swap. I took everyone's advice and left all the major components in place. Looking forward to getting things running.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

I little of an old thread, but I didn't want to start a new thread for maybe a simple question.
Are the typical upkeep replacement parts for an ls more expensive than typical gen 1 parts.
I guess I could start comparing them from a online parts store, but I wondered if anyone had a general idea.
I mean I know what typically needs to be replaced or goes out on a gen 1 and the cost to replace them, but what about an ls?
Also, I don't have to take my truck to a mechanic, I can do the repairs myself. What about an ls?

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

You can Google anything you want! If I google Duisenberg Piston Return Spring Problem I'll get something, but it doesn't mean its a common problem.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

I guess that means what you mean by upkeep parts? Your typical gaskets are more expensive but they rarely leak, and are all reusable.

Bottom line, over time a well cared for ls will cost you a lot less in upkeep than a gen 1 small block would. Just because the reliability is so much higher. Any given repair might be more expensive though.

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

That's exactly what I was asking. Thanks

Re: Replacement parts before install
 

i just did an engine replacement in my 2000 tahoe with 5.3 all i did was water pump, intake gaskets, knock sensors, remain seal and cover gasket and the valley pan gasket i installed a new pcv vavle that just had a hole drilled in it instead of the spring things inside motor had 150k on it inside was clean it runs good and makes 60 psi oil pressure at idle