Finer points of shortening and tucking bumpers?
 

I would like to shorten the front bumper.... and maybe the rear, not sure yet. I would also like to tuck it as close as possible. Anyone have any progress pictures of this being done? I like this picture below, would like to get my chrome bumper looking this sharp. Any tips? Chop frame horns? Wish upon a star?

edit :( can't post the attachments

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...2&d=1405914099


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...0&d=1405914076

Re: Finer points of shortening and tucking bumpers?
 

If you look close you can see where that bumper was cut outside of the outer bumper bolt and re-welded to shorten it and still use the original mounts , To tuck it cut and re-weld the frame horn and re-drill for mounts. Then find a cheap re-chrome shop (impossible they are all expensive) That's why many you see are painted .:smoke:

Re: Finer points of shortening and tucking bumpers?
 

Thanks!

Anyone have pictures of this? Sounds like my chrome bumper will have a goofy weld line in it after re-chroming :(

Re: Finer points of shortening and tucking bumpers?
 

When your done cutting and welding it back together grind it as smooth as possible and the chrome shop will take care of the rest and it will look brand new ,Also make sure your happy with the way it mounts you have to weld the mounting brackets on the back of the bumper and remove the bolts and weld fill the holes and grind them smooth also for a nice clean look when installed .Get out your wallet I see this project in the $450. to $600 range .:smoke:

Re: Finer points of shortening and tucking bumpers?
 

I will be sectioning my rear bumper to fit the stepside bed better. I talked to a chrome plating shop about the welding. He said to remove all chrome before welding. They can remove it by dipping. ($100) He said not to use a mig welder due to porosity in the bead. tig is preferred. Tack up everything first, and make short passes skipping around to avoid warpage. Be very careful when grinding the welds not to go below the surface of the bumper or you will need additional passes to get back to surface level. You may have to block sand them to avoid waves. He also said not to use stainless steel filler rod. That's too bad, since it runs so smooth. I purchased a repop painted bumper which I will try to chemically strip in stead of starting with a chrome one. The surface is probably rougher than a chrome one, but the plater can buff it down.
Russ