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-   -   Torque Converter lockup wiring question. (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=698813)

Nodnarb76 02-23-2016 08:40 PM

Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'm in the middle of my LQ4/4L80E swap, and my instructions that come with my standalone harness states in needs 12 volts input from my brake pedal.
does this mean 12v when the pedal is pressed in or 12v when my foot is off the pedal?
I know older cars (including my 87 Suburban) are 12v when your foot is off the pedal and goes to no volts when the peal is pressed in.

clinebarger 02-23-2016 08:52 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 (Post 7497002)
I know older cars (including my 87 Suburban) are 12v when your foot is off the pedal and goes to no volts when the peal is pressed in.

This is correct for all Gen III engines/PCM's.

aknovaman 02-23-2016 08:54 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
It depends on which pcm you are using for early and late engines. Early ls1 style (24x) engines need 12 volts removed with brakes applued. Later e38 (58x) ecu need 12 volts applied with the brakes applied.

Nodnarb76 02-23-2016 10:08 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
My motor/PCM is from a 2004. so I need zero volts when my foot is off the pedal, 12v when I'm pressing the brakes right?

aknovaman 02-23-2016 10:13 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
Nope. Use a 4 pin gm switch from a 1990's s10. Two terminals for brake lights. Connect other terminal to switched ignition. Last terminal to purple tcc wire on pcm.

ls1nova71 02-23-2016 11:35 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 (Post 7497144)
My motor/PCM is from a 2004. so I need zero volts when my foot is off the pedal, 12v when I'm pressing the brakes right?

Technically on an '04 you'll need both. Pin 33 (purple wire) on the C1 connector (blue one) will need 12v when the pedal is not depressed, and pin 6 (light blue wire) on the TAC module plug needs 12v when the pedal is depressed. Your truck should already have the right brake pedal switch with the two sets of connections on it unless it didn't have factory cruise control, which I would think would be odd on a fairly loaded suburban.

Nodnarb76 02-23-2016 11:41 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by aknovaman (Post 7497153)
Nope. Use a 4 pin gm switch from a 1990's s10. Two terminals for brake lights. Connect other terminal to switched ignition. Last terminal to purple tcc wire on pcm.

is this the switch you are talking about?
My existing brake switch has connectors for cruise control that I won't need, could I use those, or would you recommend getting one from an S-10?

Nodnarb76 02-23-2016 11:43 PM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
1 Attachment(s)
For what it's worth, this is what mine currently has.

ls1nova71 02-24-2016 12:12 AM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 (Post 7497311)
For what it's worth, this is what mine currently has.

That is the one you need. And just an FYI, since your truck has cruise already, it's only three more wires to hook up to make it work on the LQ4..... ;)

tinos555 02-24-2016 02:15 AM

Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ls1nova71 (Post 7497296)
Technically on an '04 you'll need both. Pin 33 (purple wire) on the C1 connector (blue one) will need 12v when the pedal is not depressed, and pin 6 (light blue wire) on the TAC module plug needs 12v when the pedal is depressed. Your truck should already have the right brake pedal switch with the two sets of connections on it unless it didn't have factory cruise control, which I would think would be odd on a fairly loaded suburban.

Do you have to use pin 6 (light blue wire) even when not using cruise control?


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