Pulling engine
 

I'm going to put another 350 in my '69 C-10. Is it easier to pull both engine/trans or just engine. There is no air on it, and I might want to shove it out of the shop to clean the engine compartment and respray it black. I'll be removing the radiator for more access. Thanks for any comments,,,Bill

Re: Pulling engine
 

They are not that easy to take out as one piece unless you take the radiator support out. I would say unbolt the trans, put a strap under, pull the motor, then take the trans out from the bottom.

Re: Pulling engine
 

I've only pulled or installed the engine and transmission together when I have had the entire front clip off of the vehicle. It can be done with the rad support there, but have a couple of strong buddies that can lift that transmission tail shaft up and over it as the unit is slid out with the hoist.

Gary

Re: Pulling engine
 

exactly why i say not to pull it all together without the radiator support off. Is the trans a manual or an automatic?

Re: Pulling engine
 

If you have access to an engine leveler you can use with your cherry picker I would pull them both out together. It does take a bit of jockeying in and out but IMO it is much easier to work on and you spend less time on your back underneath your ride.

Re: Pulling engine
 

Split them , The sb weighs about 575 alone add the tranny weight and then use a cherry picker to pick it up and over the core support ? Why ? Your still going to have to lift the tranny tail to get it out and over the support and your just asking for scratches or worse with 725 lbs over your head and you'll need 2-3 people to move it .Bad Idea .:chevy:

Re: Pulling engine
 

Exactly why I said it can be done. :)

Is it the best way... no. But... its doable.

Gary

Re: Pulling engine
 

Hey thanks for all the input. Its an automatic trans. We're doing it at my mechanic's shop,,,so we'll have all the "toys" to help with getting it out. I imagine I'll strap the trans up so I can roll it in and out of the shop to clean the motor area out to paint it. Also going to put a new steering box in, it has power steering, and its the original one,,its worn,,floats around some.

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split them, much easier to get out and back in...

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I've always pulled both together as on unit and have never ever had to remove the radiator core support either// never ever needed anybody helping me just lifted it up with the cherry picker and wheeled it out all by myself

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x2

Re: Pulling engine
 

I had to do it a few years back. All by myself. It took a little over 4 hours to remove the engine.

I did this by separating it from the transmission. Do not forget to push a rag into the torque converter hole to prevent the fluid from spilling out everywhere. Better yet use a plastic plug sized correctly for the hole.

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for me the best way is all together i dont care if all the front core support is still on the vehicle or not. I use a really nice engine leveler and it makes it an easy 1 man job

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I have pulled many engines, never split them. It's not easy getting the tranny out on your back and u have to jack the truck up pretty high. I pulled my engine alone with tranny attached I just bought a leveler from summit it's like $50 I only took out the radiator and took off the fan

Re: Pulling engine
 

I prefer to keep em together so I don't have to re-stab em later.
We each have our own preference, but either way will work. As you are doing the job "at your mechanics" shop, I would suggest to do it how he prefers as he's probably done more that a few.
One day you too will have "your preference".

Re: Pulling engine
 

x2

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if you need the cub scout troop to help move an engine on a cherry picker you should not be messin with an engine change// imo

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The more the merrier ! All engine swaps here include Budweiser and usually something burning on the grill . But lifting over 700 lbs above your head on a "cherry picker" over the core support by yourself is just NOT SAFE .We were all young and overly ambitious at one time and we only became old men by doing it with the least risk as possible . Heck you want to be adventurous go use a tree limb and a 1,000 lb come along .:lol:

Sometimes you have to remember there are young men in here who have never pulled an engine let alone work a "cherry picker" by themselves .Think safety not bravado and live longer . It only takes one small mistake to have it land in your lap .we did a lot of things "back in the day " that wouldn't even be considered today .

Re: Pulling engine
 

If for whatever reason you want the trans out, pull them both. If not, leave it in there. They're both doable, and they both have issues. You've gotta support the trans if leave it in, so if you're gonna be pushing it around the shop in the off hours you may want to just pull it all so you can set it aside without it flopping around in there. Also, I don't like doing the torque converter bolts from underneath.

Re: Pulling engine
 

a bunch of cub scouts swilling beer sounds like a disaster in the makin to me // end the day with limbs missing ends up in the hospital

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:lol: Be happy , Encourage the young guys wanting to learn about these old trucks , But with your knowledge let's encourage them to be safe ! I'm sure you remember back to the day you got yours many of these young guys are just learning and want to keep their trucks for a long time and possible pass it down to their kids .:chevy: and no worries I still have all my limbs !

Re: Pulling engine
 

My two cents is to remove the grill and core support - and if you have an engine load leveler ($26 at Harbor Fright) remove and install the motor and trans as a unit.

I was glad I did it this way because once the core support was out I found the rustiest area on my whole truck under the part of the core support that was covered by the inner fender. This rust appeared to be caused by battery vapors but nothing that a little trip through the electrolysis tank and some undercoating couldn't take care of (for ten more years anyway).

Also the core support rubber bushings are cheap and critical to the alignment of many of your front body panels so it is a good opportunity to replace those.

After all the worst case is you lift that whole 700+ pound mass over the core rather than unbolting it - and then two months later unbolt the core to change out your bushings cause your fenders and hood and doors aren't lining up right.

Also on the TH350 the aluminum case is much weaker than the cast iron motor so if the two are already bolted together as you are cranking them around into position to mate them up you won't be stressing those tabs on the transmission where it bolts to the motor (as much - and especially not individually)..as you try to maneuver the engine into position on the trans.

I did my own motor/trans R&R by myself - one mistake I made was to fill the motor with oil and install the big long oil filter... well it turned out the filter was right in the way when I tried to tilt the thing into position... so next time I'll leave the filter and oil for last..

Also it is a heck of a lot easier to clean things without the core support installed..

Photos of rusty core support, electrolysis, newly undercoated core, and new and old core support bushing photos attached..

Re: Pulling engine
 

Same for me.

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Pull them together and be through with it. I usually don't even use the leveler. It's harder it seems to wiggle that stuff back together with the dowels on the block and the engine mounts. It's all simply preference pick a way go with it. If you don't like that way lesson learned. I like to clean the tranny and put new seals front and back while it's out too. Either way have fun good luck

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This question revolves around the equipment your using to lift the engine. Low dollar Harbor Freight style NO! Quality picker with lots of height and long, wide set legs or a an A frame style with a good chain fall. YES! Go the first path and things will go wrong at some point. It may be minor or major but it will happen.