Won't start troubleshooting
 

Looking for pointers. Drove my truck for about ten minutes. Started right up. Turned it off for 20 min, then it wouldn't start. Just a single click. Later I tried it again an it started and I got it jome. Three weeks later I got paid and took the battery in for testing. It wouldn't hold a charge so I put a new one in. Started right up.

The next weekend it started right up and drove it for 20 min. Stopped for a while then it wouldn't start. Single click. Waited and it still wouldn't start. Tried to jump it and same click.

So, since the jump didn't work I am guessing that the battery and alternator is ok. Maybe a bad starter? Bad starter solinoid? Bad cable? Would love some pointers.

Thanks!!!

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

solenoid probly.

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Starter heat . Get a new mini high torque starter and a heat shield and your problem will be gone .:chevy:

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Could be a poor connection at the starter, battery, or neutral safety switch. As the windings on a starter get old they take more than 11-13 volts to turn till the battery can't give enough. Heat exaggerates the problem and causes a no start sooner. The original design is a good one and it's just time to replace the starter, if all connections are good. I have never done just the solenoid. I always go all the way and replace starter/solenoid as one. I may end up buying a starter I didn't need if the solenoid died early, but I avoid alternating between one going, then the other. Works well for me

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Most likely it is a starter problem. Are you running headers? check and clean the starter connections and wires. (purple, yellow , and battery positive) if that doesn't work your probably in for a new starter. i suggest getting a high torque mini starter. i got mine for 60 bucks I've been running it 2 years now , never had a problem with it and I've got headers

As stated by Specail K it may also be your neutral safety switch if your truck is a Auto.

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Had the same problem. While buying the new mini starter and heat shield is one way to go, I installed an extra long (48inch) negative battery cable with the ground being at the inside starter mounting bolt. They cost less than $20, and the bolt end needs to be reamed out for it to fit. I've read where the factory had considered this as a fix to the "Hot Start" problem, but didn't do it because of the extra cost. Since I put this on along with a heat shield, I no longer have any issues

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

If you're getting the big CLICK then the solenoid is working. Normally if the purple wire's circuit is bad, once it gets hot it does NOTHING when you turn the key.

If you get it to the NOTHING stage, that's always always a bad solenoid trigger circuit (purple wire). People cut it for ammeters, anti-theft, or reasons of their own and if that circuit isn't soldered and well connected, no start when hot.

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Thanks for all the replies. It's a 3 on the tree so no nutral switch. Stock iron exhaust. Went out this morning bine cold and it started right up, pulled it into the garage and let it warm up. Shut it off, tried to start and got the big click. So at least it's consistent :)

I will crawl under there and check my connections, and will likely be on my merry way to get a new starter.

The normal starters look to run $45ish. The only mini high torque one I could find was $200 and only available online. Maybr im searching for the wrong tging. What one was $60?

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

If indeed you do have a true hot start and not a problem with a loose wire[make sure the grounds are CLEAN and tight as well. They sometimes get overlooked. I would dare say from my time owning a shop that does outside work sometimes that 75% of wiring problem can be traced to grounds not fully grounded.
Now IF you still have a hot start problem and ALL connections are good and tight maybe even check with a multi meter to check and make sure they are good [I have seen the eyelets look clean and tight and the wires in the eyelet be loose]then look into a Ford remote solenoid. You can go to the MAD website they have kits and diagrams on how to do it or search that here and find it. It WILL cure hot start and better yet heat soak problems. If you can stand the idea of a Ford part on your truck. Good luck, I hate wiring problems with a passion. Jim

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

I would check your voltage drop to the purple wire.

Hook up your meter to it and have someone turn the key (be prepared for it to start, you never know). What's the voltage there at the starter (on the purple wire, not the big red battery one) WHILE the key is turned? And how does that compare to what's at the battery?

I wouldn't start throwing parts at it unless you know why, so troubleshoot a little before trying to stick starters or solenoids in it.

Not to disagree with hugger, because his suggestion is valid, but I strongly recommend against the bandaid of a Ford or other remote solenoid. ALL that does is replace the purple wire's direct circuit with big relay. If the purple wire circuit is correct, you never need it.

That purple wire however goes through the neutral safety and the bulkhead connector so there are a couple of places for it to run into problems. But those problems, once found, should be fixed, not routed around. Just my two cents.

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Isn't there still a clutch safety or anything? Or can you crank it in third?

Now think about it, I have vague memory of seeing how far I could drive my '69 307 on the starter, but I had the solenoid hooked up to the horn, so it's hard to say...

Re: Won't start troubleshooting
 

Thanks again for the advise guys. Since I don't own a meter (I know, what a looser) I checked my connections, and picked up a new stock starter. Boy, what a pain to replace. I had a little S curve in the exhaust right in the way. Got the new one in and fired it up.

Ran it for a good 20 minutes, turned it off like before and tried to re start. Success!

So all seems better now. I did notice that the new one makes more noise. A fun "rrreee" when it starts. But it turns over the engine and starts with no problems. I am guessing that it just needs breaking in, right?