Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

I'm beginning to think I'm not very good at making searches on both Google and this forum to solve my build issues. I'm thinking it's just me being an amateur at this stuff

I have a bellcrank "z-bar" that will not go on the block stud once mounted to the frame and I'm not sure that the rod is right or I'm not sure how it goes into the clutch fork.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Try installing it on the ball and then the frame , that's why the frame mount is slotted to allow the threaded end slide into place before tightening the nut .and your missing the clutch rod wedge that fits on the rod

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Are you sure you have a V8 Z-bar? The L6 Z-bar would be too long.
Also you're missing the "Nut, Pushrod" which isn't a fastener-type nut but a wedge that has 2 pivots and fits the matching grooves in the Clutch Fork. [On some 4x4s, there's also a nut securing the Lower Clutch Rod to the back of the Clutch Fork. And the end of the LCR is threaded.] The LMC catalog has ''exploded'' diagrams showing assembly sequence. It's a little murky, but the only game in town.
On the V8s, if it's really tight, you could try to put the Ball Stud inside the Z-bar shaft and then threading in into the block. Some of them have 2 flat sides milled into the B/S sides for a skinny ''tappet'' wrench to turn.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

I am not 100% that it's a v8 z bar. I did try installing it on the stud first and it hung over the frame mount about 1 inch if I remember right. I take some pictures of that too later if it don't work.

As far as the pushrod on the bottom, how does the wedge stay on there? There are no threads on the bottom.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Sounds like you have the wrong one and the wedge just slides on and held in place by spring pressure

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Grumpy's right. The 2WD version only has an unthreaded end, and is held in by spring presssure and counterbalanced by clutch resistance. In fact I may have a one-off, the product of some off-road crazy PO's tinkering.
If your VIN starts out ''CS'' rather than ''CE'', your truck would've been originally produced with an L6. The PO may have gotten lucky using the OEM L6 Z-bar -- maybe with the 4WD-style screw-into-engine-block Ball Stud on the last engine. You are using the bracket mounted Ball Stud that has 2 [or 3?] bolts holding it to the side of the block. Maybe this has less clearance?
The Wedge for the Lower Clutch Pushrod/Clutch Fork junction is called a "NUT-PUSHROD'' [p/n 30-0912] in the LMC catalog.

Looks like the PO also joggled the upper arm on your Z-bar for header clearance. I've done this myself but also had the arm/tube factory welds break leaving me immobile and stranded in traffic. Inspect this bead.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

I've just taken a hacksaw to six cylinder Zbars in that situation. The Zbar for the inline six is longer than the small block one. If you hacksaw the end off of it though, they work fine.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

But L6 Z-bars are so hard to find anymore!

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Five years from now we'll be telling how to weld extensions on to V8 zbars to make them work with 6 cylinders.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

Yeah, Or phase-pulse plasma injectors in the 40 gigawatt range.

Re: Clutch, Bellcrank "Z-bar", Linkages, Block Stud :/
 

any chance we can get images of correct clutch linkage return spring mounting location on the throw out bearing fork and also where it mounts on the frame.. A picture or two is like a thousand or two words.

thank you