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Zinc oil additive
How many of you guys run zinc oil additive in your motors? I have a 79 350 and getting ready to change the oil after the break in
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I do, ZDDP
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I am breaking in my rebuilt 327 with Amsoil full zinc breakin oil and then after 100 miles I will run Amsoil Z Rod oil as I do in all my older non roller cam engines.
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I used Comp Cams break-in oil at the start, and then I've been running Lucas Hot Rod oil (high Zinc) ever since (3 years now, daily driven).
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I heard of guys using Rotella 15W-40 as it is unregulated like the 10W-30 ones, its a Diesel motor oil but don't mind that, by the way asking what oil to run can start WWWIII just sayin', it's right up there with what spark plugs to use, or what tires to run, ha ha
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The new LE rotella hasn't the zinc any more either. But keeps an engine super clean inside, my 406 looked awesome when it was apart last. Had been together since 2007 with rotella 15w40 in it.
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I use AC Delco EOS. I have used it when breaking in my Harley engines for the last 20 years. I have it in my new 350 crate engine. You can buy it at Pep Boys also.
Ken |
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Not the cj4 spec, as the new diesel trucks get all the emissions crap.
Like catalyst and soot traps and egr the oil has gone the same way. Diesel oil is probaby better, but not as good as it was. I like it for the 2.5 gallon jugs at wal mart |
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Why mess with additives or the latest formulation (reduced ZDDP) Rotella T when you can spend a little more for oil with the correct levels of zinc and phosphate DESIGNED IN to the additive package, not added on? Depending on what your oil has in its additive package, pouring in a bottle of ZDDP Plus could cause the zinc and phosphate levels to be too high, causing more harm than good. You can google "ZDDP levels" and read for hours on end.
I like Driven Racing Oils, formerly Joe Gibbs Driven. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/ Their products are not cheap, but neither are Lucas products, a company that was started after the owner supposedly found a 55 gallon drum of some magic elixir in a building he bought. Sure, I'm buying that story. If your engine has stock or mildly upgraded valve springs, and you used a good break-in oil, you'll be OK with Valvoline Racing Oil in the silver jar. Or Mobil 1 10w30. In fact, the 350 in my son's 69 Chevy pickup has a mild flat tappet Edelbrock cam with matching valve springs that have 80# seat pressure. After break-in in 2004 with regular oil and CompCams P/N 59 break-in lube, we have been running a variety of name brand 10w30 oils, and the engine has been running strong since then. That's probably because the vast majority of cam/liter wear happens during break-in. After that you're good to go, at least with mild cam and valve springs. BTW, google "Lucas Oil" followed by the words "scam", "stabilizer, "truth", etc. My favorite Lucas product is their Stabilizer which is 80wt oil and soap, which is actually listed in the MSDS data sheet! I wouldn't trust this company's products to lubricate even a bicycle chain. From Business News Daily: Lucas attempted to make better oils that would help prevent his trucks from breaking down while also maximizing their performance for his fleet. To accomplish this, Lucas began searching in chemical junkyards for the right ingredients to mix and match to create his products. Those searches, combined with his existing mechanical knowledge, led to the first official Lucas Oil Products, and a test of these products on his own trucks proved the formula worked. "I never went to college, but there are times when you are taught something and you are told this is the way it is and you believe it enough that you close your mind to any other thoughts," said Lucas. "Eventually I learned the way you were supposed to do it, but by then I already knew I was way ahead of everyone else." |
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I broke my 400 in rotella, with Lucas break in additive, then switched to mobil conventional 10w40 with edelbrock zinc additive.
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I think this is the best, might not be the cheapest, don't care about that. Good price online and free shipping az |
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And for the record, I went roller cam 10 years ago. It's on its 3 rd rebuild, same cam.
Get the rotella for the 2.5g jugs. 9 quart pan and a tall filter, don't even pull the dipstick |
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another rotella 15/40 user here. I've only been running it the past couple years, but no complaints.
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The engine in my 86 came from Auto Zone about 7 years ago. Needless to say it doesnt have but about 18,000 on it now. Long story but it's true. I've put the lat 8000 on it. Stock engine. Would it hurt to run the delo oil in it?
Or Castroil 10w30 or 40 and keep on running it. It's not using any at 3000 oil change. |
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For a while I was very anal about keeping extra ZDDP in my '85's 454, but I've slacked off based on reading and more observation. My dad's '86 K20 (350) has 361,000 miles on the original cam (two valve jobs over the years - that engine's been used for a lot of pulling) and never had a drop of anything except conventional oil (10w30, 10w40, and maybe some 20w50) put in it. My 454 has 122,000 on it - I've had it since 77K and have used Schaeffer's syn blend for most of that time. For a stock engine that's maintained well, my opinion is the only time a ZDDP additive or high-zinc oil is necessary is during break-in. And don't fall for the "synthetics leak" nay-sayers - Valvoline Maxlife is good stuff that a lot of people trust.
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Been wondering if I need to run any. But i didnt think it needed it because of the years on it.
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Paws72, as long as it has a fairly calm cam I'd use Valvoline MaxLife 10w30/40 with no additives and have no worries. I run it in my Suburban's flat-tappet, carbureted 350 ("broomstick" truck cam - only put about 10K on it so far), it's the oil my dad used in his '97 Suburban from 170K to-date (415K and counting) and I've seen it cut consumption roughly in half in a Dodge and Buick 3.8L V6, both with just under 200K at the time.
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At this point it is prudent to mention that more is not better. Too much ZDDP can turn
the oil corrosive & cause more harm than good. |
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