EGR differences
 

Looking at what is out there and I noticed a few things. First, I noticed that they are listed for automatic and manual transmissions. Anyone know why there would be a difference there? Second, AC Delco (same with the off brands) show two different styles. One style has a solid top with the nipple you attach the hose onto formed into the top. The other has a plastic nipple that rotates. The first style seems better to me simply because the rotating plastic piece seems like it would break or get damaged easily. Am I putting too much thought into this? For what they are they are pretty pricey.

Re: EGR differences
 

My 1980 C10 250 inline 6 wouldn't idle without stalling. I suspected a bad egr valve, but when I priced out a new one couldn't believe the cost. So I tested the vacuum valve with a hand pump and it was ok. Then I removed the EGR and fount that even when it was closed I could blow air through it. I tried cleaning it but no luck. So I traced the EGR' bolt holes on a small piece of flat steel and drilled them out. Cut a gasket out of gasket paper, and bolted it on in place of the EGR valve. Then I plugged the vacuum line, and now the truck idles again and it didnt cost me a thing.

Re: EGR differences
 

I have considered the block off plate option, but I am trying to keep it fairly stock and it could set a code in the ECM. I have found them for under $35, but for what it is that is high to me. Mine is leaking and causing idling issues too. I will break down and buy one eventually....just not sure about the different tops.

Re: EGR differences
 

For $35 bucks I would have replaced mine, but they wanted $100.

Re: EGR differences
 

The new EGR is in and the vacuum leak seems to be gone. Unfortunately, after messing around looking for an exhaust leak I now have a code 44, the truck is really doggy now, and it is raining so I can't mess around with it...