Swaybar Install FAQ With Pictures
 

There are lots of members asking about installing a swaybar on the front of their trucks.

First, all swaybars from 73-87 2wd trucks interchange onto earlier trucks. The larger trucks like 3/4 and 1 tons typically had larger bars on them from the factory. The bar shown in this install was given to me by a friend. We pulled it off an 86 3/4 ton 2wd truck. It is the 1 1/4" bar.

Some of our trucks came equiped with factory swaybars. If your's did, you are lucky. You can simply snag a larger unit off a heavy duty truck to improve your handling. For folks like me, who's trucks did not come equipped with a factory unit, the install process is a little more complicated.

The install documented below was performed by myself in about 2 hours.

One factor to consider is if your truck is lowered or will be in the future. The factory swaybar mounts hang very low under the frame and when the truck is lowered, they typically get bent very quickly against a curb. Early Classic Enterprises makes a set of raised mounts intended for lowered trucks. With these mounts, your bar will be high enough to never have to worry about hitting it. I used the raised mounts on my truck, which is lowered 4.5 inches in the front.

First picture is of my Blazer which uses factory GM mounts and is lowered 4.5 inches in the front. As you can see, the bar hangs too low.

Besides the swaybar itself, you will need some other parts. If you pull a unit off another truck, be sure to get the clamps (4) that bolt the bar to the truck. You can also get the factory sway bar mounts off the donor truck too, but be forewarned, they are riveted on. Usually, it's too much trouble for me to remove the rivets in the junkyard, so I just buy new mounts.

This picture is the ECE mounts. Notice the part number is written there for you. ECE mounts cost 19.00. Also, is the GM part number for the factory mounts. Just take the number to the dealer parts guy and pay 12.00 each (you need two).

You will also need 4 clamps. Remember when I said they get hit against a curb? Well, two of mine were bent, and they came off a non lowered 3/4 ton!

Don't sweat it. Notice I bought two new ones. Again GM part number is shown. Cost was 2.66 each.

New bushings are advised too. I used Urethane bushings. If you go to any local parts store that sells Moog brand parts, you can buy them there. The part number shown is for 1 1/4" bushings. Your parts guy will want to know what diameter bar you have, so measure before you go to the store.

Don't even mention Urethane to the parts guy, you will just confuse him. All Moog bushings are Urethane.

They come two to a box, so you will need 2 boxes. I paid 11.00 per box, or 22.00 for all of them. You can also order whatever flavor suits you through any aftermarket vendor. Again make sure what size bar you have before ordering.

Here is the main difficulty of the job. Notice I'm holding the brackets up where they will go, and there is a rivet in one of the holes. The rivet secures the bottom of that little crossmember in place. Take your grinder or torch and remove the rivet head. Using a punch, hammer the rivet out of the hole after de-heading it. Do one side at a time, or the crossmember will try to move. After removing the rivet, bolt the mount in place, before removing the other side rivet.

Bolt both brackets in place using 3/8 grade 8 bolts. Don't worry, the grade 8 bolt is as strong as the rivet you removed. As a note, Early Classic stuff comes with the finest hardware anywhere. All cadnium plated grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. Strictly first rate and well worth the money.

Here is one of the brackets installed. Notice I put the bolts down through the bracket before installing it. You can't do that after the bracket is in place. They taught me in airplane mechanic school years ago to always put bolts hanging down rather than up, so if the nut ever comes off, the bolt can't fall out. Right or wrong, that's the way I'm mentally programmed.

Also notice, I left all bolts loose until later to allow everything to shift a little if needed. Don't worry, I did tighten them all later on. Again, notice beautiful bracket and hardware from Early Classics. I never mind paying a little more for good stuff.

Your lower control arms on each side will have these two holes for the swaybar clamp to bolt into. Don't worry if your truck never had a factory bar, the holes will be there anyway. That blue thing is the coil spring to give reference as to where thse holes are.

Now, bolt it all in. If you use new Urethane bushings like I did, there will be strong language and prying to get it to all line up. The Urethane doesn't give much slack. You might have to let the truck back down onto the ground to get everything lined up. When you finally have the bolts in all 4 clamps started, go back and forth side-to side thightening them up. Recheck all bolts for tightness when you're done.

All done! Notice how much higher this bar sits than the one in the first picture. Both trucks are lowered the same amount and have the same size tires. The Early Classics brackets raised the bar up a bunch.

If you buy the frame brackets new, you will spend 19-24 dollars. New bushings are 22.00. New swaybar clamps would be 11.00 if you bought all 4. And a swaybar typically runs about 20-30 bucks in a junkyard.

So for a total of 70-85 dollars max, you will improve the handling of your truck more than any other mod you do. Mine was a particulary good deal, but I still have less than 50 in the whole deal. If you don't have to buy the clamps and can get a bar cheaper you could save even more money. There is actuallly no reason you couldn't reuse the old bushings if they aren't oil soaked or deteoriated.

I'm not trying to screw the aftermarket vendors here, but with the Urethane bushings, your junkyard bar is just as good as the 125-150 ones sold new by vendors. It's just a 1 1/4 inch bar, not rocket science. Plus, these things are heavy and it costs some bucks to UPS one across country. But, on the other hand, you might not have the time or willingness to lay on your back in a dirty junkyard to gather all the pieces up. :rolleyes:

Excellent information!!!!

very good detail makes me wanna go out and do my swaybar but sigh cold weather and lack of a garage makes that a bit difficult :):metal:

WELL DONE
 

I just completed this myself. You documented it very well. Maybe Josh can move this to a tech page.

scott

good job, great info. I am on my way to the parts store to get some new bushings now

I think we should move this thread to the FAQ page, you did a beautiful job explaining everything, including a few tips and the always difficult to find part numbers, cuz god knows the parts counter guys are dumber than a bag of door knobs!! Props to you Tx Firefighter!!!:canada:

I totally agree, It should be saved for future reference, Very nice Job.

I was wondering how this was going to work with my lowered job also, (lowered 4"-6") You showed me here what, and how to do it.. COOL !!!

Saved me a whole lot of leg and typing work..

Thanks !!
Ron

Excellent description and photos; thanks for taking the time to help out lots of people! Sway bars really do make a lot of difference (for anyone who doesn't have one)!

The new bushing make a Huge diffirence.

I put a new set on the Burban before I wercked it.

Well done my friend, thanks for the info.

Good info, I copied this to the FAQ board.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

rear sway bar?
 

Just wondering if anyone puts front and rear sway bars on, I am setting up my new truck for work (yes work!) and towing a small closed trailer at 65 + in the wind with a semi going by is a bit of a handful, definetly going to do the front, but thinking of a rear sway bar as well, on a 68 3/4 2wd coil spring pickup. thanks

Great Job !!

Great job. that was well done.

Thanks for the great job:D wish all the tuturials where like that.

Excellent job. I was going to post asking for pics of this install. Thanks.