Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

Hello everyone.

I am cleaning up my engine and engine bay and I bought motor mounts and thought I should change them. I removed the through bolts from the mounts and then jacked up the motor. I pulled two of the three bolts out of the bracket that is attached directly to the block. I was not able to get access to the third one. Then I started realizing that there is no way to remove the mount from the bracket that is attached from the frame because you can't get a wrench to hold the head of the bolt from spinning on the bottom side. Do you have to pull the entire bracket that is attached to the frame off in order to change just the motor mounts? How do you change these motor mounts?

Thank you

-Gavin

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

If the motor is clear from the mounts, I find it easier to pull the brackets from the frame. That way you can clean and paint them while they are out.

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

You ~can~ get the frame mount off, using a basic tool set. I did mine a week or two ago, using merely a pair of wrenches and a socket and ratchet. And a jack to raise the motor.

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

I have a K20, if it makes any difference, but I don't recall having any trouble accessing the three bolts that hold the clamshell mount to the frame bracket. It took two people though, one on top, and one below.

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

The 4wd frames are easier to get to the motor mounts than the 2wd because the 4wd towers are behind the crossmember leaving the bolts accessible.

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

I was able to remove mine while leaving the large bracket attached to the frame. I don't remember the specific problems, but was able to get to the nuts & bolts using tools such as ratcheting box-end wrenches and wobble sockets.

Hang in there, you'll get 'er done!

Re: Removing Motor Mounts 1974 C10
 

Not sure how this worked out for the OP but I got mine out. It's the getting back in I worry about!

I think the Driver side is going to be fine but the pass side has the fuel line and brake lines in the way so that is likely to add to the challenge.

2 tricks I learned which I might need to use:
little heat and a custom bend on a yard sale box wrench to hold a flange nut
or
Tack weld a small piece of steel you can bend to the nut and use it to hold it in place