![]() |
Cab Rust - UH!
Howdy guys - I have a 1972 C10 that I am good with making a shop truck. It has typical and not so typical rust in the cab. It is over the windshield, passenger & driver side roof above door, inner/outer rockers, etc...
Question is, if I just want a shop truck, if I don't replace the rust but por15 it is it going to screw up structurally later? |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
If you don't remove the rust it will continue if you just treat it.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
I hate rust and try to remove it whenever possible.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Sounds like you're better off finding a clean replacement cab. Band Aids work short term.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
It depends on how much rust he has, what he's willing to do, and how much he's willing to pay.
My cab is pretty rusty/bondo'ed. A new cab may be an easier route BUT where do I put that? |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Quote:
I made the mistake of blowing it apart before and not being able to enjoy it for a while. I don't want to do that again unless I have to. Thanks again guys! |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
That being said, It's my opinion without seeing how crazy the rust holes are, that you should be fine to knock around town in it. I've seen some trucks up here in the North that you could see the frame rail under the holes in the floor, lol.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
I have seen (and owned) some really rusty trucks that were still pretty solid structurally. As long as the doors shut well, the cab doesn't shift going around corners, and your feet don't drag on the pavement, I'd say drive it!
Good luck, Rg |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Quote:
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Quote:
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
C10agent,
My truck has a fist-sized HOLE the in the cab floor behind the seat. It's been like that since at least the 1980's........it hasn't been an issue. I thought about buying a whole replacement cab last year but that got sold I think to someone more able to go get it and store it. Frankly, I rather want to get my cab fixed "just because." I'd really like to pay the welder extra to let me watch and take notes. |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Quote:
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
I just did the inner and outer rockers, cab corners, some floor work,a drip rail and some repair on the windshield lip on my cab. It was a lot of work but is not extremely difficult to do and I still have my original cab. I looked at a few "good" cabs and they all need some work. I would not hesitate to repair a cab again.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Recently I found this British guy jademuttley who has what I think is a great method or procedure for repairing rust and he has done many videos sharing his expertise.
His genius is to break down the restoration into manageable sections; and modding or fabbing each piece of repair sheet metal by hand much smaller than I would have thought optimum before seeing his work. Obviously he is an absolute master so he makes each step look super easy. but his results are hard to argue with. I'll try to post a link but probably safer to just navigate to youtube and type in "jademuttley" (his channel).. Here is an example from the series where he rebuilds what would have looked to me like a hopeless wreck hardly worth scrapping into a gorgeous car.. Here is a title: Triumph Vitesse Restoration Part 3 HOW TO HD 720p and a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1PAD5mfTxI |
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
I used a undercoating sprayer with a wand to spray Por15 in to every void I could access on my Burban. Check page one of my WMB thread below.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Wow! How the world has changed. Back in the 60s, we could only afford what we called junkers. If they had holes in the floor, we went to the restaurants, and got giant tin cans that were used for tomatoes and stuff like that. We flattened them out, put them under the floor matts, and kept on driving.
|
Re: Cab Rust - UH!
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:14 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2025 67-72chevytrucks.com