1962 k20
 

Anyone with tips on how to make a t221 to a rh drop divorced np 205 a smooth and well functioning swap would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: 1962 k20
 

Just a few pics for you. Sorry for the lack of a build thread on this but I made a few mistakes, a bunch of fixes that were too embarrassing to share on this great forum. FWIW, it works great now even with all of the trial and error to get to this point.

I pulled my 221 when it started getting a little loud. At the time, I didn't have a lot of time to source rebuild parts for it and I needed the truck back in service for some towing. Enter the Dodge 205.

If I could do it again and had more time, I would have tried to snag the crossmember for the 205 I got. Couldn't find one when I needed it (Murphys Law) so I went with Plan B.

I noticed that the stock crossmember for the 221 was roughly (I say that loosely) the right contour to match the 205s top hung mounting bosses.

With careful measuring I was able to install the 205 off center to the passenger side by nearly 3/4" which resulted in a nasty vibration that would come and go at will. It wouldn't ever survive like this without some sort of catastrophic failure that might have ended with a 14" driveshaft riding shotgun. Sketchy driveshafts are not something to be messed with as they will come undone at a moments notice and they have no sense of humor.

I didn't drive it much again until I did the spring swap at which time I wanted to correct the misalignment in the t case. I ended up slotting the original 1-3/8 holed in the crossmember which allowed it to be moved to the drivers side. I also welded and adjusting bolt into the crossmember to lock it into place. It is now within 3/16 - 1/4" of center and perpendicular to the frame.(which it wasnt before).

1st pic is 205 in 1st and wrong location
2nd is the driveshaft with the 221 and NV4500 combo (pre 205) - Note, I think Tim was right. The tube is like 3" long.
3rd is 205 in right location with adjusting / locking bolt in place
4th and 5th pics are of the mounting studs and rod coupling spacers

If you need any more pics or info just ask. It wasnt an easy swap but for me its been worthwhile. The 205 is just way quieter, runs cooler and I don't feel like Im abusing it during driving / towing like I did the 221.

Re: 1962 k20
 

Nam, who could ask for better help than from the guy who did all the trial and error as well as pain and suffering I'm sure. He stuck it out, got it right, and now you have his text book on it. I wouldn't be embarrassed for stepping into the unknown and find my way to the side of success. When I went back to the machine shop their comment was "It's those big tires". My comment was, "There are no tires under my ass!" and went to Dodge to order the assembly...yoke/shaft/u-joints. Don't you wish that was still possible?

Re: 1962 k20
 

If you locate a np205 from a 1971ish international you could use the crossmember and all in place of the t221 and it's crossmember.

Thx for all your help GENIII. I actually bought an entire 74 dodge w200 just for the tc. For $700 I couldn't pass it up. After reading your reply I'm hoping I can make use of the cross member and perhaps the drivelines as well the newer style Dana 44 and Dana 60 sometime down the road. I will definitely be picking your brain at times.
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How bout a 74 dodge cross member and 205?
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Re: 1962 k20
 

Thanks for the kind words Tim. Wish I had documented it better but at the same time, there were too many times that I was using words and phrases that shouldn't be documented. :lol:

Absolute score! You've hit pay dirt!. All of the driveshaft yokes and joints have been figured out. IIRC, the T case is a 32 spline input = good. The rear Dana may have the Bud hubs which may have a little different center hole diameter than your wheels but thats a small detail. You should be able to snag the stock shift linkage too. Get that thing stripped and maybe sell the extra parts to a Dodge person to help finance it. That's awesome! Pick my brain any time or better yet, start a build thread on the install. Good stuff. Happy for you.

The shape of the x member is probably most critical. The width can be altered and modified. You should be able to order parts like bushings easily. I would definitely use the crossmember out of the Dodge.

Re: 1962 k20
 

63GenIII: When you mounted the T-case the first time, was the whole unit physically offset to one side, or was it cocked between the frame rails, so the yokes didn't come out square to everything?

-Brad

Re: 1962 k20
 

Brad, It was both cocked ( not square) and off center to the passenger side. ...

That was a bad day