Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

I'm doing a budget ls swap on my 1985 K10. Already pulled and sold the 350 for $500 today. The 700r4 is toast. While I have it apart I am working to fix a steering issue. It would wander all over the road. Pull left for a bit then pull right. It's lifted 4" with 33s. stock steering arm. I purchased a lifted steering arm and am about to pull the trigger on a new steering box, 4 new tie rod ends, and steering coupler assembly. I figure if I replace all these items at about $250 it should steer like a new truck. However now I'm wondering if I should go ahead and do the ball joints upper/lower and new bushings in the front end while I'm in there. This would add probably another $200 or so in parts that currently appear fine. So my question is when you are rebuilding something like this where do you draw the line?

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

You are already there, might as well do it all.

Thats my $.02

Bubba

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

Get Moog ball joints and Rock Auto has the best price I have found.

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

I wouldn't. It's two totally separate systems. Are the ball joints loose? Irregular tire wear? Moog ball joints wear prematurely. I suggest genuine dana spicer. But only if they need it.

Don't overlook the steering box mounting at the frame. They tend to crack at the bolt holes for the steering box. Also if it's lifted without caster correction that will cause driftiness. 5-7 degrees is ideal.

If its lifted are your spring bushings ok? Upper shackle hanger bushings often go unchanged with lift kits. Energy suspension offer poly replacements.

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

Several years ago, I had the front end of my 75 C10 worked on. Had a shop I trusted do the work. They asked me if it was a temporary fix or was I planning of keeping the truck for several years. Told them to treat it as a long term keep. Got new control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, new sway bar bushings, a broken sway bar bracket replaced and a good alignment. Was a bit over $700 parts and labor.

When I got it back, the difference was very noticeable. Drove like a new vehicle. No more slop or subtle vibrations. Steering wheel was lined up perfect. Today, several years later, it still has very little play and steers and drives very well.

One thing not replaced was the steering box as they determined it was still in good shape.

Do it right while you are there. With the motor out, things are easier to get at.
Repack the wheel bearings.
If equipped, check the sway bar bushings and brackets.
Do plan on a full alignment once everything is back together.

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

Don't overlook a simple toe adjustment. Solid axle trucks don't usually wander or wear tires. I have a 2" lift on one of my trucks with no change in steering. I don't think a 4" lift would make it wander but that is when they start recommending the steering arm. My 76 K10 still has original ball joints and tie rod ends and u joints at 175k miles. The new trucks don't last that long.

One of my friends had to take out a $2000 loan to rebuild the front end on his 2012 Ford.
Like Steve Mcqueen said, "new stuff's no good".

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

If you're going to keep it I would, if you're going to sell it and it could be a danger to the person buying it I would.

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

Really? that's a new one on me, been installing Moog stuff since the 80's, never had anyone come back and say, Hey, my ball joints wore out prematurely.

Cannot go wrong with Dana/Spicer, they make good stuff,
just expect to pay a LOT more.

Re: Trying not to get carried away on front end rebuild
 

I am an installer in central Texas and we have a shop rule that we will never install moog ball joints or rough country suspension.


Dana spicer is 10 bucks more per side.