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New Bed Wood time.
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Finally got around to replacing the bed wood. Judging from the half dozen holes and the mushroom farm underneath, it's time..:lol:
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Here's a pic of the new wood. Still have to sand it, drill the hole, stain it, and then preserve it. Shout out to GMC Pauls for the graphic on the measurements.:metal:
Still have a bit of work ahead of me.:lol: |
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Nice. I'll be watching.
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I just picked up some tigerwood today for my bed -- looks great but I got 3/4" and I'm worried that it might be too flexible. How thick is your wood?
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Recently re did mine. Would've been easier with bed off the truck but it wasn't to bad doing it with it on. Good luck.
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I had o ct the short outside boards to width, but the long boards were spot on. 3/4 thick is what the factory used so your boards should be fine. |
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Found mine in a wrecking yard 20+ yrs. ago. Stored it complete on its side until recently when having my truck reworked. It was originally a long bed but was cut down to fit. Has some aging to it naturally but just gives it character like the character that will be behind the wheel.
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What type of wood are you using?
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The only down side, if there is one, is that I had to buy 16 foot long boards, in order to get the 97 inch length (why couldn't it have been 96, but that would've been too easy), so I have a bit of lumber left over. That's ok though, because I have lots of projects to use it on.:metal: |
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I'm always interested to see how the different grains turn out. I just finished pine as well, so yell with Any questions, and good luck on the project!
Jim |
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So far, so good. I have it all stained, and all cut out except for the back corners, which will be simple.
Tonight I sorted out my bolt kit, but still have to figure out where the washers go. The kit came with 14 -1 inch washers with a 1/4center hole, and 26 1 inch washers with at 3/8 center hole. I'll make notes when I take the old bolts out |
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Curious what type of stain/clear protection everyone is using?
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To protect it, I'm going with two coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, top and bottom. I've said it before, but the reason I'm having to replace my wood is that 25 years ago, I sanded and stained it, and then put Marine Varnish on to protect it. The varnish met all the moisture trapped so it couldn't breath, and eventually rotted from underneath. The BLO wil protect without sealing and it'll turn a little darker over time, from sun exposure. |
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I used tung oil on southern yellow pine. I didn't stain it just let it do it's thing on the patina. The truck lives outside and the bed gets used. The oil is real low maintenance... good choice! You can check out the original oiling, and what it looks like a year later. :chevy:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7659407 j |
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I'm staining, I am not a fan of stripping failing coatings! I'm going to use Armstrong Clark Hardwood Transparent, just not sure whether to go mahogany or amber yet...
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I used a pine kit. Burned the grain and gave it 3 coats of semi gloss spar urethane. Painted the bottom and sides with rustoleum high heat bbq paint.
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Yeah that grain looks really cool singed! I'm using this end sealer on my boards
http://amzn.to/2ywRIt5 And I heard this stuff is the best for oiling, it's made for hardwood and penetrates without creating a hardened film on the surface -- formulated for really dense hardwoods with interesting resinous properties: http://amzn.to/2z5jEl1 |
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The new beds that are shown are awesome! I do like the fired look but I don't have a torch big enough for the job.
Any suggestions on where to start installing the new wood? Outsides, working back and forth, with the two thinner boards last is what I'm going to do. Am I right? |
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Yup, that is the approach I used also. For the last strip or two, you will need a helper on the opposite side, or use something heavy to hold the carriage bolts down while you get the nuts started. Anxious to see it installed!
Jim |
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post pics for us... :chevy::chevy::chevy: |
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Yup, you need a good set of woodworking tools. If it's dimensional lumber you won't need a planer or joiner, but you will need a table saw with dado blade set.
It also helps to have an assistant to help feed the board through the saw. After that I measured and made templates for the counter sunk washers. As I said it takes a few woodworking tools that would be cost inhibitive for one time use. The reason I cut my own is that I already have all the tools. |
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