Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

This was a question/scenario I saw posted today on the book of faces:

I work in the auto industry now (since 2005 actually) an I dont see this as a viable explanation to this problem. I know things weren't as strict in the 70s as now but this just goes against all the reasons why automakers use assembly lines....

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

No - that sounds pretty far fetched. Those are some oddly specific speculative statistics.

Additionally - small blocks and big blocks weren't made in the same place so even if a process was messed up it wouldn't affect both of those families of engines.

K

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

Thanks Keith!

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

That also makes sense not having different engine families on the same line. I should have picked up on that as well. When I was in the machining part we did one engine series in our building, from machining to final assembly an testing. Then it went over to assembly. When they wanted to start making a 4 cyl there they built an entire new building for that....

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

he thanks gfor opening this topic.

It was me, that started it on FB.

my small bock is driving me crazy. Tried stock starters, mini starters, high torque starters, replaced flexplate. noything works. The starter is just too far from the flexplate.

video of the distance:
https://youtu.be/VX_fxiU3800

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

I have this exact same issue. tried four different starters. once I determined it wasnt the starter i started shimming. i had to put two starter shims on the outer starter bolt to tilt the starter in towards the flexplate.

I have talked to alot of people about this. Some people have never used starter shims. some people have always used them. I had to use them on this engine but not the first engine in my truck nor on the engine in the 79 i used to have(that was a crate engine from who knows how long ago)

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

ill have to say I've never seen or heard of this til now...

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

Me either.

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

wow, what a tall tale there..

if the removal of all shims was insufficient for the correct spacing, all nicks and dents on both mating surfaces were knocked down, the flexplate ring gear OD and tooth wear is verified in spec, and still not close enough, a small fly cut on the starter mounting surface would be my solution if I was unable to align it any other way..

good luck!

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

So at some point this engine was starting fine right? Where is the starter that was working? Never turn in your "core" until everything is back to normal.

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

nope, I bought it second hand, without a starter. Came from America to Europe as a spare. rebuild it. And till the day, allmost three years now, never found a starter or flexplate combo that had normal spacing. they are all to far off...close enough to start the engine, but loud as hell and will start grinding within weeks/months

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

Could it have been line bored excessively? I agree with Killer Bees response.

Re: Crazy (imo) starter bolt theory. Keith we need your input
 

To start with, the engine in the video was using studs and nuts to hold the starter on. This is not correct! To register correctly you need to use the knurled bolts that Chevrolet used. Most parts houses can supply them. Use the correct starter for that year of block and use the bolts that match that starter. At some point GM went to metric bolts so the bolts and starter need to match. In other words metric bolts with metric starter, imperial bolts with imperial starter. The bolt shoulder should fit snugly in the block's countersunk holes and it should fit the holes in the starter snugly. If the bolts are loose in the holes in the starter, the starter can move around and will not fit the same each time it is loosened and retightened.
Get a new starter or a new nose piece, as the rebuilt ones have been remachined to clean up the surface and they will require shimming.
Millions of these engines were built and operate without problems. I believe the problems start with rebuilt starters, aftermarket flywheels and people trying to reinvent the wheel.