U joint issues
 

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I've been able to post updates on my build because I keep running into issues. Today I thought I figured one out but not luck...here goes the story.

So my 64 c10 had a differential I could not I'd. It was way wider that the stock rear end and I could not rebuild the brakes because I did not know what rear end it was. So I bought one of a 70 pick up and slapped it in. Problem solved right? No.

When I went to attach the u joint it would not fit. Bearing cap was too big. So I had to hunt down a u joint that had two different size bearing caps. After digging through autozones selection i found a u joint that has the two sizes I needed. Success right? No.

Now the bearing cap is too wide. So the u joint on the drive shaft needs to be a bit bigger than the one on the yoke. See pics below. 3 1/2 is the yoke and 3 10/16 is drive shaft.

Finally my qyestion. Is there a u joint that will have different width and diameter bearing caps? Or am I left to change the yoke or the drive shaft?

Also, I am not 100 percent certain the rear end is an actual 70. I looked up the casting but i has a long range of year applications. Tube casting does not match the codes I found online. Can anyone help with id. Thanks!

Jorge

Re: U joint issues
 

I had mine done at Power Drive here in Wichita KS. They new right off what I needed. Might give them a call.

Re: U joint issues
 

The two main U-joints in the early cars are 1310 and 1350. There is what we call an off cross that had 1310 on one side and 1350 on the other. It looks like a truck 12 bolt but not a trailing arm rear with the boss not being on it for the track bar. You can measure the diameter and width of the shoes and figure out the shoes. You just need a good parts guy the ones who can only use the computer are not going to be able to help. Post pictures of the yoke on the rear shoes and we may be able to help work it out.
Jimmy

Re: U joint issues
 

If the rear end already had the original trailing arm mounts on it and a panhard bar mount on the passenger side axle tube, it is a '63-'64 truck 12 bolt. The '65-'72 truck 12 bolts for the C10's have a boss cast into the center section for a stud for attaching the panhard bar.

Re: U joint issues
 

Thanks for the reply captainfab but it had the mounts for leaf springs. I removed them and welded trailing arm mounts.

Re: U joint issues
 

Then if it is 6 lug, it is from a '63-'79 K5/10 or if it is 5 lug it is from a '73-'82 C10

Re: U joint issues
 

Do you have the pictures of the yoke?

Re: U joint issues
 

Hi rvrfoot,
I'll try and get some pictures of the yoke posted. I've just been busy and have not had a chance to mess with the truck.

Re: U joint issues
 

I have a u joint like that. I can try and measure it and see if it might work in your truck. I can give you the part #. I really don't need the u joint anymore.

Re: U joint issues
 

The 3 letter TAA code on the axle tube makes the rear end a 1970-1971 as it shows in my books from a C series truck . All rear axle letter codes prior to 1970 were 2 letters.

Re: U joint issues
 

Ok here are the pictures.

Re: U joint issues
 

Hello everyone, I had the grand idea of swapping the yoke from the axle I had removed...lucky for me I had not gotten rid of it. Same 35 spline yoke so now I will just take the yoke in to match the u joint. Also, based on the info from everyone i am pretty certain the axle is from a 70 c 10. Thanks everyone for the help.

Re: U joint issues
 

Swapped the yoke and installed the u joint. Installed the driveshaft in the chassis. Thanks again for all the help.

Re: U joint issues
 

Good deal.

Re: U joint issues
 

Thanks for these posts.
I'm trying to stick with stuff that is most common to most gm years.
So far my 66 is everything from a 79, so I don't have have a smart parts guy. I just say I need this from this.

Re: U joint issues
 

The info in this post is limited. There are a lot of u joint diameters and widths and retention methods. I think the 60-66 originally came with 1310's, but so many trucks are a mismatch of parts and pieces that you could have anything.

See this sheet for best identification:

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html