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Nice 1950 find?
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Normally I am in the 67-72 forum, but I have been looking for an old 3100 for some time, and I may have finally found one. Found this one on the side of the road, checked it out, looked it over. Has very minor surface rust in a few areas... no rust through. Started right up, ran smooth, drove great. Truck has been well maintained with original stovebolt 6 cyl. Everything works on the truck except the wipers. Frame is very solid, glass and seals are good. Thoughts on value?
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Re: Nice 1950 find?
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Couple more pics
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Re: Nice 1950 find?
IF it doesn't have a lot of bondo, I would say 6-10k depending on where you live and your haggling skills.
I say if, because the body appears to have newer paint (BC/CC) and I would be all over it where you live because of rust. |
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From what I have seen advertised on facebook for a lot more and being a lot less I don't think the price is that far out of line if you plan to keep it pretty much as outside of things that bolt on like wheels and tires. The good news there he doesn't have a spendy set of wheels and tires that you don't like on it in hope of jacking up the price.
I think the value is there in what you don't have to do to have a nice driver but outside of wheels and tires or drivetrain I'd figure out what I would want to change and put the cost of the changes in my bargaining chip. |
Re: Nice 1950 find?
I'm sure you already know this, but get a magnet on those cab corners.
$10K seems decent, unless your cab corners rust out in a couple years, |
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You are right: mid-priced ADs are rare. Usually they're either junkers for $2000 or street rodded for $30,000.
Cab corner rust is so typical and easily repaired, I don't think it should even be an issue. You can look inside the cab to see if repairs have been done, or check the other typical rust spots that are more exposed, such as door bottoms. But if this is the truck you've been looking for, I'd buy it and not let potential cab corner rust be an issue. Even if there is rust there, it will be years before it manifests itself, and you can fix it then. Put the decision in the seller's court: make him an offer that makes YOU feel good. Then buy it, drive it, enjoy it! |
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Looks like it could be a good buy if bodywork was done well and do something different with the wheels. |
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There is nothing wrong with a little body filler to finish out smoothing it out after you get the metal as close as you can by working it. The list of top names that do all metal finishing and don't use any filler is a real short one and a real expensive one. That is as long as the truck isn't built out of bondo. That's one of the reasons I am building a new cab for my truck and cutting up the old one. I'll be first to admit that the corners of the cab where I chopped it are pretty thick bondo because 38 years ago I didn't have the skill, tools, equipment and especially patience I have now. I was always in a big honking hurry to get things done rather than getting them done right.
I'd take and shine a good flashlight down in the cab corners to see what the inside looks like, that will tell you a lot about what was done. Maybe even stick your camera or phone in there to get photos that you can look at if you can't see back there. Look up under the fenders to see if there were dents that were filled or rust out anywhere especially under the fender alongside the cowl where they rust a lot. Take a look at the kick panels as those are rust spots. It looks like an old enough build that any rust issues would make themselves known by now. That should mean it is a pretty nice truck for the $$ |
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That statement digs deep. I feel that I will be that guy someday. Ive had mine for over 21 years and I only drove it once, and that was home. Thats almost half my life, its been in pieces waiting. Well off to the garage, better start putting my time in. |
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Same guy said he ran into trouble framing his house before the tub / shower enclosure was installed. lol... |
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To the OP...I don't see anything out of the ordinary that would be costly. I've got 10k in parts into mine and my interior is barely there! Check for a 12v conversion, that might be a nice plus. Check if the bed wood is in good shape. Check if the window glass is delaminating. Those might be some dollars to fix. The wiper conversion I did from the vacuum wiper to an electric motor was extremely easy and I had no idea what I was doing. I believe there is a 6v and 12v wiper motor you can get.
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