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Wanna-be Quadrajet guru
I recently picked up a new hobby.
I decided that I want to be "That Guy" when it comes to quadrajets. A buddy of mine gave me about a dozen Q-jet cores that he had lying around and that sparked my interest. Armed with these cores, A book by Cliff Ruggles, some papers by Lars Grimsurd, some precision drill bits, an ultrasonic cleaner, and a Genuine "Barker Un-warping Tool" I think I stand a decent chance of actually tuning some Rochesters. I have successfully rebuilt about a dozen marine Qjets, when I had my boat repair shop. That's not the problem. I want to figure out how to re calibrate carbs that were choked down by the EPA and make them actually preform for a given application. The first victim is already on the bench :devil: |
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Good hobby, hope you figure all out.
Ron |
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Sounds like a plan.
Keep us posted. |
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Even though there's a lot of older cars that still use carburetors, it's getting hard to find good carb repair shops these days. I started doing my own repairs on them because there weren't any carb shops around here.
It may not make you rich but it's a good hobby to get into. |
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I kind of enjoy working on Quadrajets! The best tool I've found is a good magnifier with a bright light and a eye loupe. It really helps looking into all of the passages to make sure they're clean.
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And crack detection spray for the float bowls
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Just joking love the quadrajet I’ve been messing with mine for ages it was flooding turned out it wasn’t the poor carbs fault like everyone was saying. I had too much fuel pressure from the mechanical lift pump causing fuel to force past the float needle. These quadrajets get the blame for everything lol
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Here's a video of another person that also uses them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duO82KYHTPg |
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That's good to hear that someone local is going to get into something 'old school'. Hopefully you have better luck than me with attracting local customers.
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Thanks! :chevy: j |
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So far I've completely relied upon Cliff Ruggles to select and deliver the proper calibration materials such as jets and metering rods. Not the cheapest alternative, but a certain path to success. Really can't say enough good things about that shop, and his forum is an invaluable resource as well. |
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J |
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You're right about Cliff. He is The Man! A couple things were left out of his book, but that book is an amazing resource. And Cliff is Super helpful. I have been lurking his forum as well. Also, Lars Grimsurd's tuning papers are incredibly detailed. He emailed me piles of procedures, specs and tech tips. I am still deciphering some of his info. ...That dude must be crazy smart. |
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It works pretty dang good. I am happy with it. Last time I spike with Dennis Barker, He didn't seem to have any interest in selling more unwarping tools ... But It never hurts to ask. |
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j |
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Here are 2 guides I've used, but it sounds like I'm far less experienced than you.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/QJetTuningPaper.doc http://www.vetteclub.org/warehouse/t...ke%20Setup.doc What I've done with my truck is installed an Air Fuel gauge. This lets me know EXACTLY what the carburetor is doing. No guess work, no going by feel. A cheap simple setup costs like $75. A nice wide band setup costs about $300. EDIT: Found another link full of links https://www.florida4x4.com/tech/quadrajet/index.php |
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good thread with great information
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Update:
I have successfully built a Quadra-jet That idles nice about 700RPM, has zero off idle stumble a broad power band and a seamless secondary transition. I gotta hand it to Cliff over at cliffshighperformance.com . That guy knows his stuff. stock Q-jet off a 1979 K10 #17059201 Recalibrated Carb specs: upper Idle air bleeds ------- .695 lower idle air bleeds ------- .075 idle tubes ---------------- .036 idle restrictions ----------- .052 main air bleed (air horn) -- .0845 idle screw holes ---------- .089 acc. pump discharge holes - .028 fuel inlet seat (no window) - .135 primary jets -------------- 74 primary Rods ------------- 50c Secondary rods ---------- .057 (DR) Float level ----------------- 9/16 (Set lower for off road) APT adjusted per Lars Grimsurd's instructions, APT spring provided by cliffs High Performance. Secondary air flaps notched for smoother transition, secondary tension spring set to 7/8 turn, . Modified for electric choke Tested and adjusted it on my 75 blazer 4x4 : 1987 350 TBI block 72cc Swirl Port TBI Heads Cast Iron GM Manifold (modified to fit tbi heads) RV Cam Factory style HEI ignition initial timing 13* total advance not including vacuum advance, 34* 50* total with vacuum advance plugged in 4-speed sm465 Trans 4:10 gears and 32 inch tires Runs sweet It is going on basically the same setup, except with flat top pistons, 9.25:1 Compression instead of 8.75:1, and 3.73:1 gears rather than 410s |
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Only 13 initial.
Should be able to crank that up, don’t you think. |
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But it might be totally ecstatic at 18.
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I could recurve my dizzy I suppose, but it seems to run great right where it is. Any more adv. and it might ping under WOT, when it gets warmer. I could probably bump it a couple degrees, but it is an old plow truck. It's fine. |
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And that’s the safe way to do it!
Setting your timing by following the all in idea works great at up to 1000 foot elevation. Once you start getting up higher you need to rethink your timing and jetting. You need more initial to start the burn earlier and leaner jetting. Most people do nothing about either one and wonder where the power went. You’re optimizing your carb, I just thought you’d optimize your timing too. Optimized timing could totally change your carb settings. But like you said, it’s just an old plow truck. Best to time it conservatively. |
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I especially like the diagrams in this link: https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/qua...ed-451098.html It was found in the bottom link you provided. |
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