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Wheel centered in opening ?
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Hey all
I think this looks pretty good If it goes back an inch even I think it would would look a bit off Let me know your thoughts Thanks in advance |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
it looks abought right. but what suspension are you using? if its a leaf spring suspension, the center line may move forward as you add the weight of the engine etc to the front end.
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Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
Looks good from here...
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Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
I feel your pain. This is the kind of stuff that just drives my OCD crazy. I would sit a look at this all day long if it were my truck.
Having said that............to me it looks like it could go back aa 64th of an inch.:lol: |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
looks right now, also looks like and s10 or camaro clip. because of the angle the upper arms the wheels tend to pull rearward when the suspension is compressed. i would throw some weight on the front clip and see where you are at.
fender alignment looks right though, the front of the fender is in the right spot. |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
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Damn in blowing it Hahahaha Totally forgot to say ..... it is a S10 frame Thanks for all the advice / comments Love this board So much positivity here |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
I have to go with what Joedoe suggested. weight it down with the same weight as the engine and trans would be and see what it looks like.
When my buddy was sub framing a lot of trucks (he quit counting around 25) he would set the wheels about an inch forward so that they were centered when the suspension settled. |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
another thing you can do is get the suspension down so the lower control arms are level to the ground (the normal ride height for the original unit the frame came from) and use threaded rod or another solid link type to capture the suspension in that position. remove the shocks and use threaded rod or square tubing etc in their spot. that way the ride height will be the same throughout the whole build until the rods are taken out. at that point you can drive it a bit and then adjust the springs after they are "broken in"
when I started my frame swap I first "pinned" the suspension on all 4 corners on the donor vehicle before the body or driveline was taken out. that way the suspension will be where it was engineered to be at ride height. when I am done the frame swap I will remove the links (square tubing in place of the shocks) and adjust the suspension with the total weight of the "new" vehicle sitting on the frame. the completed version will have full suspension travel like the original vehicle had instead of more "up" than 'down" travel depending on the weight of the new vehicle. wheel alignment will be easier because at ride height the suspension is sitting where it was engineered to be. speaking of alignment, ensure the alignment on the donor frame is sorta right before you go setting the cab down and fabbing mounts. like alluded to earlier in the posts, the design of the suspension can move the axle center line forward or back as the suspension travels up and down. alignment adjustments can do the same thing. if you started out with an s10 frame that was not in an accident and was pretty close to being in alignment then you are prolly ok. a frame that was in an accident could require some tweeking and the axle centerline could be affected. better to find that out before doing a bunch of work on cab/fender placement. rake angle wanted compared to original rake angle intended for the donor frame can also affect the alignment. all good stuff to figure out before cab mounts. |
Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
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Re: Wheel centered in opening ?
I like what you guys are saying
Before I burn the mounts in, I’m gonna bag it So I will revisit all this when the suspension is adjustable |
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