shackle flip vs. stock
 

Can anyone list the major adv vs disadv between the shackle flip and the stock set up? Does one allow for better offroad driving, handling, pay load capacity, etc... I understand about the lifted springs vs stock springs. The other info is what I'm after.

plus is there any way to get the rear axle back to center once the shackle flip is installed?

thanks


diggy

The shackle flip has been mainly used for lifting the vehicle without using blocks or aftermarket springs.It allows you to lift and keep the stock springs.
I don't know of anyone that has kept a stock height and flipped them.. hope this helps

i dont have them....yet... they allow for more flex, i have heard that they arent recommended for towing.. why? i am not real sure. you would find out more by posting at www.coloradok5.com in the garage forum (its the only free one).. there are quite a few people over there running shackle flips. good luck.

You can take a look at these couple of threads

Shackle flip
and
lift

:metal:

sorry guys

let me clarify a little.

i am doing a 4 inch lift on my truck and wanted to know the ups and downs to the shackle vs 4 in lifted springs

my biggest concern is the offcenter rear axle as a result

AND I NEED KNOWLEDGE ON THE SHACKLE VS THE STOCK COMPRESSION MOUNT.

THANKS AGAIN

ask Yukon Jack, he has done this to his K/20.

I have not run a shackle kit myself.I know others who like them.ORD's shackle kits are $160-170'I think.When I bought my tuff country lift it cost $250 extra for the rear springs,so I went all spring.

I know mine is on an '86 blazer, but I don't have any issues with axle being to far forward. I have jumped at the most of 3ft in the air and never hit any quarter panels in the rear. My pinion angle is perfect. I have towed, trail ride, and mud bogged and daily drove it without any issues.
Another guy I have dealt with put these on his '72 fullsize with a 14bolt and just wanted the 4 inches to fit 33" tires. He tows everyday of the week and still go's offroad with us on the weekends.

Lifted springs ride harder than my stock springs with an add a leaf. plus it saved an a$$lot of money out of my pocket. No aftermarket shackles that cost an arm and leg.
It took about 3 hours to do and thats with having my gas tank still in my blazer.
The other gentleman with the '72 was less time to do.

I have stock springs with a 2-2 1/2 add a leaf
Then to add 4 inches to that I grabbed a pair of
front perches off the rear springs on a I believe '74 blazer..
I just butted them against my hitch. It gave me perfect angle on the 14 bolt I have under my blazer..
Just drilled 4 holes and welded the edges and center..
Haven't broke yet and I have jumped out of plenty of mud holes

http://members.aol.com/blackbirdstrucks/shackle.jpg

you can see from the photo in my sig it sits pretty good.

My rear axle definiately moved forward and it would have bugged me but I knew I was going with a flatbed in the future. I've towed some big loads both on the bed and on a trailer without any adverse affects. If you use the shackle flip, verify all of your leafs are in good shape - I did my flip and then found a I had a broken leaf in one spring pack. No biggie, but still that might make you decide to get new spring packs rather than replace that specific leaf.

chevyguyBC... maybe i didnt understand what you typed... the way i understood it is that if you have stock springs and do a shackle flip you have to put 4" springs on there to get 4" lift? is that how you meant it? if so, thats not true at all.... you can get a 4" lift from the ORD shackle flip kit. and keep your stock... softer springs.

Thanks guys,


All your responses have been awesome. If i understand what has been said;

1] there is no significant adv / dis to running a rear commression mount vs a shackle flip - T/F

2] once a shackle flip is done, there is no way to center the rear axle - T/F

if the above 2 questions are True, i am just going to go with 4 in rear springs, since ride "softness" is not i concern of mine.

I appreciate all who have responded, and if anyone finds that either of my above questions are False, please share the knowledge.

thanks again

diggy

no worries, blocks were never a consideration

diggy, it depends on how you are gonna use your truck? mostly mud?? go with 4" springs! mostly trails or rocks... go with shackle flip...

I am going to do mostly trails and rocks, so the flip sounds like what i'd be lookin for. The offcenter axle is still a concern. anybody have any ideas about that?

thanks again

diggy

Read this http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm adds 1 more inch but moves axle to the rear.

diggy,

the answers to your questions are this

#1 false, the advantage for the shackle flip is improved flex in the suspension. a less choppy ride when traveling from trail to trail, the disadvantage is less towing weight.

#2 looking at the tire it is forward in the wheel well. but as the tire travels up in the wheel well it actually arch in to the wheel well. the spring is the same leigth as it was stock and you didnt move the foreward mount. so by swinging the spring down 4 inches it moves the wheel forward in the well.

i run the shackle flip in the rear of my blazer 77 you cant beat the travel it has. it wheels very well when i finish my vortac swap ill get some pics off road 4 u . ive run both lifted springs and shackle flip so any specific questions please ask.

later

ORD sells a zero rate plate that relocates the axle rearward to compensate for the lift. The tire is recentered in the wheel well. They also have everything you need to bring the front up level with the rear.

some people also redrill the spring, to move the axle back.

Im not sure what I think of that, but THEY say the extra hole is between the u-bolts, and doesn't compromise the integrity of the spring.
If I remember correctly, I read this, in a thread about using late-model F150 spring (more flexy :) ), with a shackle flip on straight axle GMs.

If you go to CK5, do searches on 'shackle flip', and 'F150 spring'

Also the forum you want is the Off Road Design forum. It is also free...


-Marty

i used a ( zero rate ) when i flexed out my tire tore up the rear of the finder well and my tire. i imagine if you do not wheel your truck relocating the axle would be ok but if you use it i recomend against it.

later

picture the spring. it compressed is in reletively the same place as it is stock. you do not move the spring mount on the frame only flip the shackle over. the rear spring moves that much in a shackle flip application. ill get a pic when i figure out the vortec swap out.

later

what? please let me know what go grab some 2wd spring means?

shackle flip
 

i run a 4 inch shackle flip on my 84 chevy i love it great flex better traction in the mud it allows the tire to stay in contact with the mud
the kit i bought was easy to install it took about 2 hours most of that was changing bushings just have to take the 6 rivets out of the old hanger and the spring retaining bolt flip the shackle over so it points up then bolt the new hanger to the frame and spring
there is no holes to drill other than the old rivets out of the current holes ive never had any problems with tires hitting the fenders but i have stock springs with a 3 inch add a leaf 2 inch traction lift and 4inch shackle flip with 35 boggers have ran 38 swampers and never hit
here is a pic of the pinion angle ill get more pics in a couple of days for you guys
pic of the beater

rear repositioned
 

are you talking about my spring percs being moved ? they are in the stock location thats one advantage of the shackle flip no shims or tapered blocks my transfercase is in stock location also

His rear has been moved 9" away from the frame.The shackle lift puts all of it's 4" at the rear of the rear.That is why the pinion is not at the stock angle.Also why the tires are not centered in the wheel well.