![]() |
Wire loom question on installation
Got my cab all painted up and ready for the next step. But I am not sure if I should run the main wire loom first or put the major components (wiper motor, a/c, dash speaker, etc). This is my first time doing a major rewiring and just wanted to get some experienced feedback.
Thanks |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Quote:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
That is the way I am leaning. Basically work from the bottom of the dash out. IE install the wiper motor, heater and a/c box and speaker first. Then install the wire loom followed by the switches and such. Lastly the interior components.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
I ran the harness and taped the ends near where the component was to be installed. Then I installed the component and terminated the harness. Seemed to work OK.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Install the dash pad first. You'll thank me in the morning.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Good point un4. It would truly be a PITA to it in after everything else. But on the other hand I've had to take everything else multiple times why should the dash be any different.:lol::lol:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Well I have graduated to working on the interior. Currently working on seats and the speaker box behind the seat. I did test fit the dash pad and like many others found that I needed to slot the holes some to get it to the right position on the front of the dash. Going to reinstall it tomorrow for the final time as I have already install the wiper motor. I also want to install the dash speaker with the speaker wires preinstalled. Once that is all installed I will have a better idea on how to run the wire loom. :metal::metal:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
5 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
03BlkZ, that is a nice looking truck. Did you find when you ran the loom in the cab that it was easier to run it on the firewall or the front of the dash? I did test the wiper circuit and it worked when I tested the wiper pump portion. The wiper part of the circuit didn't work when I tried it. I think it was the ground as I was doing the testing with the switch not installed in the dash. Just holding the ground to the switch and running power from the fuse block.
I have the chassis wiring all in place. However, wiring of the A/C is the last bit I need to do. Ordered the A/C unit but there is a four week lead time. |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Quote:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Quote:
Sounds like you have a good plan. Are you making your own wiring harness or adding to a purchased harness? . . |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
03BlkZ, You have right idea of adding grounds to both L and R frame rails. With 50 + years of rust there is often a pour path for the ground between the L and R sides. These old trucks can't have 2 many grounds. With most of us running more accessories then in the 60's. I have added ground wires into the main harness for every electrical device and they all go back to the frame, battery, engine and the cab. All of the lights, fuel tank, blower motor and the dash have ground wires going to them.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Getter-Done, the PO installed a 28 circuit Painless wiring harness to replace the worn out one. It looked like a rats nest under the dash with all the wires balled up in there. After I took it out during tear down I realized that he did not cut any of the wires he did not use. He just kind of shoved them up under the dash. That was nice as I can add things and use the Painless harness directly and not add any wiring to the harness.
I am thinking I will need to wait on running the right door wiring until after the A/C unit is installed. I am hoping I can run that part of the loom up high under the front of the dash. |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Ok, I am routing my Painless wire loom to the right side door. But seem to be short as it only gets into the door bout 6" at best. Its suppose to be a harness specifically made for our pickups. This is before I put the A/C or glove box.
My question is has anyone else ran into this issue and how did you solve it. Yes, I could solder in extra wire but before I did that I wanted to ask the question. |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
2 Attachment(s)
Well I decided to run the loom on the top of the fresh air duct. Once I have my Vintage ac system I will know if I choose wisely
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
That is looking Good:metal:
Attention to details pays off.:chevy: . |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
My experience with those press on wiring retainers is they don't last as long as you would like them to. Find a screw hole that you can use for a metal retainer.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Thanks Getter Done. To bad right after I took the pics I noticed that I forgot to put the washer pump wire in the loom. Had to open it up for about the hunderth time to put it in.
Big Bird I agree that the wire retainer sticky pads don't hold. The fix is put epoxy on the back side then stick it on. Son in-law worked at ARP and that is what they did on their race cars. Haven't had one come off since I started doing it that wY. |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Well I have made a lot of progress on the dash. The order I have done it is wire harness first, wiper motor, center speaker, dash pad and then the Vintage air system. I still need to put the drivers side together put it seems to be coming together. I think the next big hurdle will be to run the heater and A/C duct work.
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
The dash pad is very important to get in first.
You will not be able to get to all the pad retaining nuts installed if the radio is in. And the main harness wiring runs directly under the retaining nuts. Don't forget the firewall insulation. I would put that in second as a lot of the wiring and hoses go through it. Including the throttle cable if you are using one. The Vintage air glove box is also difficult to get in with the radio in place. American Auto Wire harness was plenty long for the passenger door. But I wouldn't recommend it for a stock truck. Lots of work getting it installed as you have to make up at last one end of the wire. |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Quote:
I have a few of them..they are really strong and you can move them if necessary |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Quote:
|
Re: Wire loom question on installation
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Amazon has them, Speedway motors, and I'm sure there are more Google "zip tie magnetic base" these thing work great Attachment 2143141 |
Re: Wire loom question on installation
Never seen magnet zip tie bases before. Would have made running the wire loom a lot easier.
I did install the sound dealer first. I am very glad I put the dash pad in before the a/c. The center dash pad nut was hard enough to get on with basically nothing in the way. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:30 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2025 67-72chevytrucks.com