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Pulling motor question
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Just wondering how you guys do this, with the head still on or removed. I just could not get enough lift with this engine hoist. Had to remove the head to lift the motor high enough to roll the truck back.
Was hoping I could put the entire motor together before I dropped it back in, but I don’t think that’s going to work. Would be even better if I could bolt the trans up to it too, and drop everything together. |
Re: Pulling motor question
You could let the air out of the front tires, or take the front tire and wheel assemblies off and put the suspension on blocks, like 2 by 4s, at the lowest (safe) point.
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Re: Pulling motor question
Or you could take the front end off.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1546537356 |
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Asshat (need a real name here, buddy!) :lol: did you remove the hood? |
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BTW, my name is George. |
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Easiest way is to pull front end from firewall forward. I believe it is 12 bolts if you do it this way.
Regards Steve New Orleans |
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If you have ALMOST enough lift, just take the wheels off and set the truck on the ground.
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Did you have the boom on the hoist extended all the way out? It will sometimes add more lift. As long as you don't exceed the weight limit.
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Maybe I need a better hoist. |
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~Steven |
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You might be able to gain some extra height if the chain for your hook is bolted in as high up as you can get it to the hoist. I had to do that on my Dakota when the hoist was hitting the top of the garage door frame and the oil pan wasn't clearing the core support.
Also, try to use as short of a chain as possible (without damaging any critical components) to connect from the hook to the engine |
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Only way to do this would be to buy a bigger engine hoist. Damn! Anyone know what the weight of the motor is with the tranny? |
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Motor and trans maybe 700 lbs.
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After looking at it, I think my hoist will get the motor over the body, even with the head installed. However, I don't know if I could get the motor AND tranny over the body, cuz I don't think the boom is long enough. Well, worst case, I'll just install the tranny the old-fashioned way. :whine: |
Re: Pulling motor question
Helped a guy once put a 235 in his 56 truck. Couldn’t lift it high enough due to low ceiling height in his little garage. Dropped the front down by bleeding all the air out of the tires.
Couldn’t roll it outside as there was 3 feet of snow by the door. We layed the motor and trans down flat on the floor on the drivers side. Picked it up flat like that. Cleared the sheet metal and barely missed the roof. Set it gently down in the engine bay On blocks. Adjusted the chains and uprighted it gently into position. Worked like a charm. Sometimes you gotta think outside the box! |
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Guess I'll just have to get it all assembled and hoist it up. No guts, no glory! :flag: |
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Be careful.
You get that much weight up high it wants to tip over. You got a pic of your hoist? |
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Should be plenty big enough.
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I had a custom GMC panel once (see sig) and removed the engine for a re-cleanup. It was nerve racking. Just remember - 2 tons with the arm retracted, should have numbers on the tube for weights. Hey it's been done by many before so...
"You can do it Luke" |
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I personally like the idea of removing the front of the truck. If not the whole thing, at least the bumper, radiator and all that stuff. Then you have a clean path to where you need to be without having to deal with fender alignment after you are done. Just my .02. Gonna try that when my son decides and get's his motor all worked out.
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It's up to you really. I just didnt want to fight it. And I could crawl in to do the wiring etc. since it's all custom. The only bolt on the front that just a little out of the way are the top fronts that attach the core support to the fender. But once you do them one time it's all good.
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Re: Pulling motor question
Not sure if its applicable here, but when I install an engine tranny combo in an MGB I raise the rear of the car on jack stands to help with the angle needed to clear everything.
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