1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

So my fuel tank valve finally went bad after 44 years, it was drawing fuel from both tanks and one went empty so it sucked air and wouldn't run. I ordered the standard motor products fv1t valve, only issue is it's for 5/16 line not 3/8. I can't find a 1 wire controlled 3/8 valve anywhere. I'd rather not go to a manual valve just because the truck is so original I'd like to keep it that way. Does anybody have any leads on a new valve that would work? Or could I adapt a valve that has the return ports and just plug them? The only issue is they have more than 1 wire so I've got to figure out which one switches the valve. Thanks guys!

Re: 1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

Should be able to find a fitting to adapt the 5/16 to the 3/8 line.

Re: 1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

Are you keeping and utilizing both tanks? If so, you may have to change over to the newer style valve and switch and do a little wiring modification. A lot of those older parts are obsolete

Re: 1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

Would it be a detriment to downsize to a 5/16 line from 3/8? If I've got to switch over to the newer style system I'll probably just delete the saddle tanks and put a 40 gallon suburban tank in the rear, 20 gallons just isn't enough fuel for that old beast.

Re: 1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

The system at this point is suction. Should be able to either clamp a 3/8 hose down enough to seal at the 5/16 valve or soak a new 5/16 hose in hot water just before sliding it over the 3/8 sender tube.

IIRC - the sender wires are pink and the solenoid valve wire is brown.

Re: 1976 k20 fuel tank switching valve issue
 

I have the new valve installed now, the 3/8 hose clamped down perfectly fine surprisingly, I was even able to reuse the original rubber hose, it's still in great shape. This truck amazes me sometimes! It's so clean in some spots but others look like they were recovered from the titanic. Thank you guys for the help!