Originally Posted by FAKKY (Post 8869030)

- waiting on new seals and suck to reinstall. Obviously have sound matt on floor ....

Originally Posted by _Ogre (Post 8869043)

if you ordered the correct suck, it should suck all the noise out of your doors :lol:

sorry... this ogre needed a little chuckle today :D
i put sound matt inside the doors, cut into 4x4 and 6x6 squares
just stick it everywhere you can, it doesn't matter what it looks like
new window channel should help as will new door weather stripping

these trucks were never designed to be quiet, but do what you can to cut down noise
biggest noise ogre's truck has is exhaust and wind, stereo volume control handles both rather well :D

Originally Posted by joedoh (Post 8763493)

there are three methods of sound intrusion, direct (air leaks) resonance (panel vibration) and reflected (hard surfaces).

adding an extra layer of deadening material usually isnt needed. asphalt and weighted sound deadening works by lowering resonance. resonance is sympathetic vibration. sound travels better through solids than through air, because of density. you dont "hear" the sound in a sealed cab directly, you hear the sound vibrating the panels of the cab and recreating the sound in the cab. there is a special frequency that takes the least amount of input vibration to create the loudest output sound, that frequency is called the resonant frequency, its usually in the speaking tones (100-4000hz) and that is why road noise is the most annoying, it can cancel out your speech or at least make it very hard to hear what someone is saying.

adding mass to the panel with asphalt or heavy padding lowers the resonant frequency significantly, usually it doesnt even take a complete coverage to half or even quarter the frequency. adding mass beyond that point isnt useless, it does serve to lower the resonant frequency even more, but the costs of extra layers and complexity of installing more make it a diminishing return. meaning if you half or quarter the noise on the first application, a second application may only half again the first half or quarter again the first quarter. lowering the resonant frequency means it will need much more input "power" to make the same amount of noise. ever bought a subwoofer amp? they are huge, because reproducing lower frequencies takes a lot more power than higher frequencies. it is the same with panel vibration. the more mass in the panel, the more power it takes to make it vibrate, the less vibration, the lower the noise.

people will often say " the doors shut more solidly with a THUD", but that is just a description of a heavier door shutting, it has nothing to do with the transmission of sound.

in my trucks I usually tackle the air leaks first, new door seals and window channels, and especially holes in the firewall. that takes care of direct sound intrusion. then I apply foil backed asphalt material to the floor and trans tunnel to dampen resonance, focusing on large flat panels, applying material to corners has no effect. then I apply a heavy jute to the floor under the carpet to take care of reflected sound. I can usually have a quiet conversation in the truck at highway speeds with just that amount of work.

by the way, mass adders are all the same, they add mass. fatmat and dynamat might have better glue, but they are still adhesive asphalt material. I use peel and seal from lowes, its about 16 dollars a roll.

Originally Posted by _Ogre (Post 8869043)

sound mat inside the doors, cut into 4x4 and 6x6 squares.
....just stick it everywhere you can, it doesn't matter what it looks like

Originally Posted by joedoh (Post 8869132)

I wrote this for another guy and will just quote it here and add to it below.



in your truck you will have a resonance from riding in a tube, lots of reflected noise, so apply absorbers on the floor and walls. it will lower the resonant frequency and keep the reflections down.

Originally Posted by Tempest67 (Post 8869650)

I found this stuff at Home Depot that is used for sealing skylights. (roofing section)

The black side is a rubberized tar like material that sticks really well.

The tin can sound that happened when closing the doors disappeared after applying a couple of strips of this stuff.

Originally Posted by 6DoF (Post 8869692)

i bought this stuff and plan to spray it inside the doors as well. never used it myself, but for the reviews and tech it seams to be a similar result with an easier application.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/liz-22031

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...z-51528_ml.jpg

Originally Posted by Tempest67 (Post 8869712)

I have not used this stuff, but for curved or difficult areas to get at, like cab corners, I think this stuff would work well..... and its cheap

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena (Post 8869719)

^^^This. I only put about a 1ft x 1ft square in the middle inside and it gets rid of a lot of noise.

Also, if you've got sound deadener inside did you put it on the toe board and up the inside firewall and also on the cab. rear wall? These also make a big difference.

Originally Posted by _Ogre (Post 8869757)

panel... yeah. i remember a lot of noise coming from the back.
doors rattling, pops and creaks all over, like a big echo chamber
what ever stereo you had planned, go bigger, lots bigger :D

Originally Posted by 6DoF (Post 8869760)

so my plan is to use the LizardSkin spray on heat shield outside on the firewall and floor of the truck. then the sound deadener inside on the firewall and floor. basically keep heat from getting into the metal, then dampen any sound that gets to it.

but i also want to spray a lot more places with the sound deadener. inside the doors, inside back wall of the cab, some into the roof areas but also use it as my headliner over the entire roof skin. then under side of the hood, and engine bay side of the fender liners to try and keep the 6BT noises under there. though, i'll also be spraying the valve covers, tappet cover, oil pan, and a few patches on the block with that stuff too.

Originally Posted by FAKKY (Post 8869784)

Curious how you find it .......... how long till your driving ?

Originally Posted by FAKKY (Post 8869751)

Butyl matt or MLV or both ?

Originally Posted by lower50's (Post 8875117)

This is a before and after video I did when I built my truck with Lizard Skin.
https://youtu.be/GymwCS3Mxqo
All the butyl rubber, tar sheet, Dyna matt ect. is great to keep the sound out. But when I started driving my truck it was still loud inside with no head liner or carpet. Once the sound gets in it bounces around, the other thing I noticed is when I put in the carpet in the headliner and floor. Now there is stuff to absorb the sound. You can have a conversation now even with my big diesel under the hood.

Originally Posted by lower50's (Post 8875498)

No not like paint, it splatters, so just make sure everything is masked off that you don't want it on. I cleans up easy with hot soapy water when it is still wet.