Need Carb Help
 

Two questions:

1)I was wondering if any of you could help me identify this P.O.S. carb?

2)The "idle stop solenoid" is dead and am looking for a replacement as well. Probably why it's a pain in the ass to keep it idling when it's cold!:D (have to keep foot on the gas until she warms up - then idles fine) I was wondering if any of you had to replace yours - how much??

BTW - adding pictures of carb setup slowly - need to change size for posting here.

Picture #1:

The metal line you see coming into the bottom of the carb is for my Compressed Natural Gas system.

Picture #2:

bailing wire was there when I bought the truck - haven't really investigated why it's there! LMAO!

#3

Overall shot of carb - and missing solenoid + plug.

#4:

Bailing wire looks like my carb...Wired the choke open since it isn't working. makes cold starts a B**ch and keeping it running a real pain until the engine is warm....least it does on the 6 poppers in my 70 and 82. I am not a carb expert by any means, but I though the idle stop solenoid was only to prevent it from hutting down/backing off to fast....thus less emissions. Sounds like your starting and running problem might be the lack of a working choke.

My replacement was $5...converted to manual...soon as I finish hooking it up that is :D

If it is original...it is probably a Rochester 2GV...least that's what my book says...and it looks like one to my untrained eye.

You know what man - you're right!! That's what it's for! I might go out there and yank that stupid bailing wire off and see what happens. :D I've noticed that the choke is open all the time so maybe the same thing is happening to me.

My thoughts on your cold engine problem is the choke wired open, as already stated above. It could have been wired open for two reasons, #1 the choke vaccum pull-off is shot and the engine would run very rich and load up while warming up or #2 the choke spring located on the intake opens too slowly because the exhaust cross over passage in the intake is pugged up with carbon not allowing the exhaust to pass through and heat up the area. This would keep the engine in the choke phase much to long and keeping it on high idle. Removing the intake and cleaning out the cross over passage would cure that problem. A functioning heat riser in the exhaust system would also be a good thing.

I don't F'n believe it! I took the wire off, and it runs like a top!! Kick the gas pedal once before starting - it high idles, and then give er a quick stomp - and she's idling at about 900 rpm.

Thanks for the help Palf!! You have stopped the suffering!:lol:

i bet it was wired open for a reason. the choke was probably sticking closed and will probably do it again. if it was me i would swap that carb with something a lil better that had electric choke

Those Thermostat chokes work good-Has on mine for 30+ years. Whoever wired it open probably had bad points or something and thought the carb was bad!

Well - My truck is acting like a pig! I took the bailing wire off, and it ran great for a while. I go to start it, it fires up fine, and idles for a while. I put 'er in reverse, back out, the thing stalls, and refuses to start again! I swear I had half the freakin motor pulled apart trying to get 'er going again. Notice this type of crap only happens when you absolutely need the truck!!! Well, I got it going again, eventually, but it wasn't fun. Now I'm wondering if this POS will leave me stuck somewhere! Luckily, the above problems happened in my driveway.

Anyway, now it seems the truck decides to high idle whenever it feels like it, not just when it's cold. LMAO!

I think a stick of dynomite would fix this truck up nice and good!:devil:

Is that an electric fuel pump way up there? if it dont still have the engine driven fuel pump it woudl be wise to have that electic as close to the tank as possible

They push fuel better than they pull it.